Difference between revisions of "ECM Technika IV"

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The ECM Technika IV is a  [[:Category:Prosumer|Prosumer]] espresso machine {{{machine_short_descrip}}} . {{Description-Table
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The ECM Technika IV is a  [[:Category:Prosumer|Prosumer]] espresso machine that brings quality to both form and function. {{Description-Table
 
|title        = ECM Technika IV  
 
|title        = ECM Technika IV  
 
|machine_image = [[File:ECM_TECHNIKA_IV_PROFI.gif]]
 
|machine_image = [[File:ECM_TECHNIKA_IV_PROFI.gif]]
 
|manufacturer  = ECM
 
|manufacturer  = ECM
 
|model_name    = Tecknika IV  
 
|model_name    = Tecknika IV  
|model_number  =
 
 
|type          = [[:Category:Prosumer|Prosumer]]
 
|type          = [[:Category:Prosumer|Prosumer]]
 
}}
 
}}
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== Machine Description ==
 
== Machine Description ==
  
{{{machine_long_descrip}}}
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It's a rare thing to find a machine that seamlessly combines form and function, a feat that has been achieved by ECM's Technika IV espresso machine. From the outside, you'll be drawn to the curved stainless steel housing, front-mounted pressure gauges, and custom grouphead, but it is what you're not seeing that rounds out the entire package. The Technika IV's commercial grade internal components were selected by German engineers at ECM for superior performance and build quality.
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Before getting into the internals of the machine, the housing and frame deserve a special mention. Made of curved stainless steel, the Technika IV is gorgeous to look at, but it's important to note that the frame is actually one solid piece. To save money, some companies will weld the drip tray onto the body of their machine. Not content with cutting corners, ECM has actually built the drip tray as part of the frame, making it far more durable. Additionally, the body of the machine has been designed to absorb noise produced by the internal components for a quieter brewing process.
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With regards to brewing, the Technika IV uses a 2.1 liter copper, heat exchange boiler and a vibration pump. The heat exchanger allows you to brew and steam at the same time. Similar to the design of commercial machines, the boiler is mounted horizontally by a solid bracket to protect it from from shifting during shipping. The boiler is heated by a 1400 watt heating element and the pump is monitored by a Sirai pressure stat. The Technika IV’s water reservoir holds a total of 3 liters of water and is fitted with a sensor that will shut off the boiler automatically to prevent it from running dry. Temperature stability is promoted throughout the machine, not only by the boiler but by the E61 group head and chrome plated brass portafilters as well. The Technika IV comes with both a single and double spouted portafilter, each has been designed with weighted handles to ensure that they remain balanced in your hand.
  
  
 
==Basic Usage==
 
==Basic Usage==
 
 
===Getting Started===
 
===Getting Started===
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{{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBtZ3Bkk3g4|480|center}}
  
 
===Adjusting Brew Pressure===
 
===Adjusting Brew Pressure===

Revision as of 13:53, 21 April 2016

The ECM Technika IV is a Prosumer espresso machine that brings quality to both form and function.

ECM Technika IV
ECM TECHNIKA IV PROFI.gif
Manufacturer: ECM
Model Name: Tecknika IV
Type: Prosumer


Machine Description

It's a rare thing to find a machine that seamlessly combines form and function, a feat that has been achieved by ECM's Technika IV espresso machine. From the outside, you'll be drawn to the curved stainless steel housing, front-mounted pressure gauges, and custom grouphead, but it is what you're not seeing that rounds out the entire package. The Technika IV's commercial grade internal components were selected by German engineers at ECM for superior performance and build quality.

Before getting into the internals of the machine, the housing and frame deserve a special mention. Made of curved stainless steel, the Technika IV is gorgeous to look at, but it's important to note that the frame is actually one solid piece. To save money, some companies will weld the drip tray onto the body of their machine. Not content with cutting corners, ECM has actually built the drip tray as part of the frame, making it far more durable. Additionally, the body of the machine has been designed to absorb noise produced by the internal components for a quieter brewing process.

With regards to brewing, the Technika IV uses a 2.1 liter copper, heat exchange boiler and a vibration pump. The heat exchanger allows you to brew and steam at the same time. Similar to the design of commercial machines, the boiler is mounted horizontally by a solid bracket to protect it from from shifting during shipping. The boiler is heated by a 1400 watt heating element and the pump is monitored by a Sirai pressure stat. The Technika IV’s water reservoir holds a total of 3 liters of water and is fitted with a sensor that will shut off the boiler automatically to prevent it from running dry. Temperature stability is promoted throughout the machine, not only by the boiler but by the E61 group head and chrome plated brass portafilters as well. The Technika IV comes with both a single and double spouted portafilter, each has been designed with weighted handles to ensure that they remain balanced in your hand.


Basic Usage

Getting Started

Adjusting Brew Pressure

Adjusting The PID

Draining The Boilers

Pre-Infusing

Cleaning & Maintenance

Proper machine maintenance is critical for machine function. Most machine failures are caused by lack of cleaning and many manufacturer warranties do not cover cleaning related breakdowns, so it is important to keep a regular maintenance schedule. Listed below is a suggested maintenance schedule for most Prosumer espresso machines:


Descaling

Grouphead Cleaning

The grouphead should be taken apart on a monthly basis to remove scale buildup, remove coffee residues, and improve shot flavor.

Wiki-YT-CleaningE61BrewGroup.jpg

How To Clean E61 Brew Group Mushroom, Jet and Top Valve



Steam Wand Cleaning

The steam wand should be cleaned daily once the machine is finished for the day. Milk residues quickly build up on the steam wand, so it's important to keep it clean to prevent blockages from forming.

Wiki-YT-HowToCleanSteamWand.jpg

How to Clean a Steam Wand


Recommended Cleaning Products

The best product for backflushing, cleaning grouphead components, and cleaning filter baskets is a backflushing powder like Urnex Cafiza.

Wiki-YT-OurFavoriteCleanersforCoffeeEquipment.jpg

Cleaning Portafilter and Baskets




Troubleshooting

No Crema or Bad Tasting Shots

Typically, issues with crema or the flavor of the shot do not indicate a malfunction of the machine. Instead, this indicates that an adjustment needs to be made in the brewing process or that different beans need to be used.

The following articles review the different variables and offer solutions:

If the behavior persists after reviewing these factors then the machine may need to be cleaned. Lack of cleaning can cause burned or bitter flavors, or create flow issues which can result in a weak shot. Navigate to the Cleaning & Maintenance icon above for more information.


Difficulty Frothing

As with brewing, technique is critical to frothing well. Frothing is very sensitive to technique, which has a steep learning curve. If the machine is producing steam then an adjustment to technique may need to be made. The video on the right shows proper frothing technique.

Wiki-YT-HowtoFrothSteamMilkLatteArtCappuccino.jpg

How to Froth and Steam Milk for Latte Art, Cappuccino and More



Many frothing mistakes are common missteps that result in poor or no froth. The video on the right identifies these mistakes and shows how to correct them.

Wiki-YT-6CommonMilkFrothingMistakes.jpg

6 Common Milk Frothing Mistakes



It is also important not to overheat your milk. The milk will have the sweetest and most velvety texture between 140-150 F°. As you froth past this point the milk will lose its sweetness, the froth will take on a gummier texture, and eventually the milk will scald and begin to taste burnt. The video on the right explains how to use a frothing thermometer so that the milk is kept within the ideal range.

Wiki-YT-HowToUseAThermometer.jpg

How To Use a Thermometer to Froth Milk



Flow Issues

The first place to start with any flow issue is cleaning the machine. Before going through these steps please make sure the machine is cleaned according to the Cleaning & Maintenance section of this article.


No Steam From Wand / No Hot Water From Hot Water Tap

  • Check the brew function on the machine and see if water is able to flow through the machine for this function.
  • If the brew water is not flowing, either refer to the No Flow At All section of this article
  • If the brew water flows but is not hot, refer to the On But Not Heating section of this article.
  • If there's no hot water from the hot water tap, check the steam function of the machine. If you are able to draw steam from the steam wand then the steam boiler must be pressurizing and heating.
  • If there's no steam from the steam wand, check the hot water function of the machine. If you are able to draw hot water then the steam boiler must be pressurizing and heating, because hot water is expelled from the machine by steam pressure.
  • Remove the tip from the steam wand and test the flow. If flow is restored then the tip needs to be cleaned and reattached.
  • If the flow is still blocked then there may be a blockage in the steam wand itself. Clean the wand by using a pipe brush that has synthetic or plastic bristles; metal bristles can damage the wand. Then soak the wand in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for ten minutes. Test flow again.
  • If the machine is spewing a lot of steam from the top as it is heating up, then the vacuum relief valve may be stuck open. This valve is supposed to close once the machine produces enough steam pressure.


  • The high limit switch may be tripped. The high limit switch is an internal killswitch which prevents damage to the machine caused by power surges or the machine overheating.
  • While the machine is open for resetting the high limit switch, check to make sure the wiring to the pressurestat isn't loose or disconnected. Reconnect the wires and see if the steam circuit pressurizes properly.
  • The steam pressurestat may just need to be adjusted. When adjusting the pressurestat only slight adjustments should be made. Small adjustments will make a large difference in the pressure.


If adjusting the pressurestat the first time did not raise the pressure try adjusting it a few more times. If the pressure is still not raising after several adjustments then the pressurestat is likely broken and will need to be replaced.



Poor Or No Flow From Grouphead

If the steam/hot water for the machine is working fine then there is likely something causing a blockage or pressure issue in the brew circuit. Otherwise refer to the section of this article that discusses the machine not flowing at all.

  • If a water softener is attached to the inlet line of the machine, it may be preventing water from flowing. Please remove the softener and see if the flow improves.
  • The grouphead is dirty and needs to be cleaned.
    • If cleaning the grouphead restores flow to the grouphead, the machine should be immediately backflushed to prevent further flow issues.


  • There might be a kinked, broken, or loose line somewhere in the machine. Remove the top of the machine and take a look inside to see if you see any obvious issues.
  • There might be an issue with one of the internal valve assemblies, which may need to be cleaned or replaced.
Wiki-YT-HowToCleanE61BrewGroupMushroomJetTopValve.jpg

How To Clean E61 Brew Group Mushroom, Jet and Top Valve





No Hot Water From Tap

  1. Check the brew function on the machine and see if water is able to flow through the machine for this function.
    1. If the brew water and steam are not flowing either refer to the No Flow At All section of this article
    2. If the brew water flows but is not hot refer to the On But Not Heating section of this article.
  2. Check the steam function of the machine. If you are able to draw steam form the steam wand then the steam boiler must be pressurizing and heating.
  3. Remove the tip from the hot water tap and test the flow. If flow is restored then the tip needs to be cleaned and reattached. Mineral deposits can easily collect in the screen/holes of the hot water tap, so be sure to clean these thoroughly. Soaking the tip in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder will help remove residues more effectively.
  4. If the flow is still blocked then there may be a blockage in the wand of the hot water tap. Clean the wand by using a pipe brush that has synthetic or plastic bristles; metal bristles can damage the wand. Then soak the wand in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for ten minutes. Test flow again.
  5. If the machine is spewing a lot of steam from the top as it is heating up then the vacuum relief valve may be stuck open. This valve is supposed to close once the machine produces enough steam pressure.
  6. The high limit switch may be tripped. The high limit switch is an internal killswitch which prevents damage to the machine caused by power surges or the machine overheating.
  7. While the machine is open for resetting the high limit switch, check to make sure the wiring to the pressurestat isn't loose or disconnected. Reconnect the wires and see if the steam circuit pressurizes properly.
  8. The steam pressurestat may just need to be adjusted. When adjusting the pressurestat only slight adjustments should be made. Small adjustments will make a large difference in the pressure. If adjusting the pressurestat the first time did not raise the pressure try adjusting it a few more times. If the pressure is still not raising after several adjustments then the pressurestat is likely broken and will need to be replaced.


No Flow At All

If the machine is set to the plumbed mode:

  1. First try switching to the reservoir mode temporarily and see if it resolves the issue. If this resolves the flow issue, then the issue is specific to the inlet plumb line, and you should go to the next step. Otherwise keep the machine in reservoir mode and skip down to the next section which deals with testing the "No Flow" issue for the machine in reservoir mode.
  2. Return the machine to plumb mode. The next thing to check is to see if we can isolate where the flow issue is occurring for the plumb line. Try putting the plumb line hosing into an external bucket or container filled with water and see if the machine will draw water from this source. If it can't, then there may be a blockage somewhere in the plumb line itself.
  3. If you are able to draw water from the plumb line, then there may be an issue with the plumbing supplying this line.

If the machine is set to use the reservoir:

  1. If the pump does not sound like it is activating:
    • Check to make sure the water tank is filled, and the machine isn't indicating that the water tank is empty.
    1. If the tank is empty, refill it.
    2. If the tank is full, but the machine thinks the water tank is empty then the tank may not be seated correctly. Make sure there isn't anything blocking the tank from sitting flush inside the machine.
    • Remove the cover of the machine and check for any loose or disconnected wires.
    • Make sure there aren't any kinked or pinched hoses.
    • There may be an issue with the water tank sensor.
    • There may be an issue with the pump powering on.
  2. If the pump does sound like it is activating:
    • Check the water tank to make sure it is filled and that both the inlet line and the return lines are inserted into the tank. Make sure the inlet line in particular is below the surface of the water.
    • If you are using the water softener on the inlet line, try removing it and see if water can flow through the machine.
    • Open up the machine. Make sure there aren't any kinked or pinched hoses anywhere.
    • There may be a stuck valve inside the machine.



Machine Is Leaking

Between Portafilter & Grouphead

If the machine is leaking from between the grouphead and the portafilter then the grouphead gasket is either pushed out of place and needs to be reinserted properly, or the gasket is worn out. Typically, grouphead gaskets will wear out in approximately 6 months to a year depending on how heavily the machine is used. Premature wear to this gasket can be caused by using excessive force when attaching the portafilter. It is important to distinguish where the leaking is occurring. If the leaking is originating from farther up on the grouphead assembly and then draining down to where the portafilter is attached, then refer to the section of this article which discusses leaking from the grouphead.

If the leaking is coming from between the portafilter and grouphead where you twist the handle on, then the gasket will need to be replaced. You can try using the instructions to clean and reseat the current gasket. If that does not resolve the leak then the gasket will need to be replaced.

The gasket can get stuck in the grouphead from wear or excessive heat exposure. To remove the gasket take some self-tapping screws and partially screw them into the group gasket. Make sure not to go all the way through the gasket because you can scratch/dent the grouphead if you go too far. Then use a pair of pliers to pull on the screws and the gasket will pull out with them.

Replacing The Group Gasket On Your E61 Machine.pdf

Replacing the Group Gasket on Your E61 Group Head





From The Grouphead

This section addresses leaking which is coming directly from the grouphead, known as the E-61 style. If the machine is experiencing leaking between the grouphead and the portafilter refer to the section of this article which discusses grouphead gasket issues.

  • There are multiple valves and o-rings which are part of the E-61 itself. Depending on where the leak is coming from, it may indicate an issue with one or more of these assemblies.
  • If the leak is coming from the top bolt assembly, then there is an o-ring that is loose, dirty, or worn out.
  • If the leak is coming from the relief valve on the bottom of the E-61, then there may be an o-ring that is loose/dirty or a valve inside the E-61 that is stuck open.
  • If cleaning and repairing a particular vale assembly has not worked, then it may be prudent to do a complete cleaning of the E-61 grouphead assembly.
  • If the machine is leaking between the grouphead and the faceplate of the machine where the grouphead attaches, then there may be a bad gasket or loose bolts.



From Bottom Of Machine

  1. Check the water tank and drip tray to make sure there are no crack or breaks where water can escape. Make sure they are properly positioned on the machine. Check the water tank check valve at the bottom of the tank to make sure it is not broken or cracked.
  2. Open the machine and check all of the connections to make sure they are securely attached.
    • Examine the pump and boiler assemblies to see if there are any cracks in them. If the machine was exposed to subfreezing conditions without being properly drained it can cause these components to crack. These parts will need to be replaced if they are cracked.
    • Make sure both the inlet line and the outlet line on the pump are securely connected.
    • Check the various valves located on top of the boiler assembly.
    1. If water is leaking from the relief valves, then the boiler may be overfilling. Distilled, reverse osmosis, and zero water are not compatible with this style of machine as the water level probe depends on minerals in the water to detect its presence. These water types do not contain minerals, and so the machine will continuously fill until it overflows, usually resulting in water leaking from the relief valves.
    2. If water is leaking from the relief valves even though you are using a water that contains minerals, then you may need to clean the water level probe.
  1. If the valves are leaking directly from where they screw into the boiler, then they may have a broken seal. Try resealing the valves by using white teflon plumbers tape or food safe permabond and screwing them back into the boiler.
  2. If there are any broken or cracked hoses, or hoses with pinhole leaks, they will need to be replaced.
  1. If you cannot find the source of the leak, it's possible the water you are seeing is from water spilled when refilling the machine, or from the drip tray being out of position. It is also possible to run the unit with the casing off to help identify the source of the leak; precautions should be taken to protect yourself from any exposed wiring or hot water or steam that comes from the machine if you attempt this.



Steam From Top Of Machine

If there is steam coming from the top of the machine then one of the relief valves is venting steam.

  1. If the steam is leaking from the machine while it is heating up, with more and more steam coming from the top as the machine heats more, then the steam is coming from the vacuum relief valve.
    • The vacuum relief valve is meant to vent steam until a certain amount of pressure has built up in the boiler. It is normal for this valve to vent steam as the machine is heating. Once enough steam pressure is built up in the boiler the valve will pop closed.
    • If the machine is fully heated and the vacuum relief valve is still not closing then it may need to be cleaned.
    • If cleaning the vacuum relief valve has not resolved the issue, then the vacuum relief valve may be broken and will need to be replaced.
  2. If the steam is leaking from the machine after it is fully heated, then the pressure relief valve may be relieving excess steam pressure.
    • The pressurestat may need to be lowered. If the pressure is set too high the relief valve may open.
    • The pressure relief may be stuck open.
    • If the relief valve is still opening, then either the pressurestat or the relief valve may be broken and will need to be replaced.



From Steam Wand Or Hot Water Tap

  1. If either wand is leaking from the end of the wand, it means the steam/hot water valve is not fully closed.
    • Make sure the knob is securely in the closed position.
    • If the knob feels loose, or doesn't appear to be properly engaging, then there may be a loose or broken part in the knob assembly.
    • If the leaking persists, then the corresponding valve may need to be replaced.
  2. If the wand is leaking between the tip and the arm of the wand during use, there is an o-ring that is broken, missing, or out of position.
  3. If the wand is leaking from the ball joint, then there may an o-ring that is worn out or out of position.



Machine Not Heating Or Powering On

No Power

  1. Make sure the machine is plugged into an appropriate power source.
    • Do not use the machine on a surge protector. This machine has a high power draw, more than a typical kitchen appliance such as a refrigerator or a microwave. Surge protectors are typically not rated to handle the amperage this machine requires.
    • Try using the machine on a different outlet, and make sure the machine is the only appliance plugged into that outlet.
  2. Make sure the power switches are functioning properly and not broken. If the machine isn't powering on try pressing and holding the power button in the on position to see if the machine turns on. If you are able to power the machine on this way then the power switch needs to be replaced.
  3. If the machine recently had a leak, had water spilled on it, or any other exposure to moisture then the machine may be shorting out. Try letting the machine sit unplugged for 48 hours to make sure there isn't a short caused by moisture.


Brew Not Heating

  1. Give the machine sufficient time to heat up. A heating time of 20-30 minutes is recommended for prosumer style machines for it to be sufficiently heated for brewing. Make sure the portafilter is attached during heating.
  2. Make sure the heating indicator is on. If the heating indicator is not on, then the machine will not heat. Typically this light will be off if the machine is out of water or not able to fill the boiler.
  3. The pressurestat may be set too low resulting in a lower temperature. Be cautious when adjusting the pressurestat. Setting it too high can cause the machine to overheat, resulting in the pressure relief valve blowing off excess steam.
  4. The high limit switch may be tripped and needs to be reset.
  5. The heating element may be broken and may require replacement.



Steam Not Heating

  • If the machine is producing steam, but you think it's not producing enough steam, make sure that you are purging the line before frothing. To purge the line simply open the steam knob and let steam come through until it changes from mostly water to mostly steam. When steam leaves the boiler and hits the cold wand it is going to condense back into water. If you do not purge the line it will affect the way the steam wand froths.
  • Make sure the steam boiler is turned on for the machine. Most prosumer units feature a switch, button, or PID menu option to turn the steam boiler off.
  • Give the machine sufficient time to heat up. A heating time of 20-30 minutes is recommended for prosumer style machines for it to be sufficiently heated for brewing. Make sure the portafilter is attached during heating.
  • Make sure the heating indicator is on. If the heating indicator is not on, then the machine will not heat. Typically this light will be off if the machine is out of water or not able to fill the boiler.
  • The pressurestat may be set too low resulting in a lower brew temperature. Be cautious when adjusting the pressurestat. Setting it too high can cause the machine to overheat, resulting in the pressure relief valve blowing off excess steam.
  • The high limit switch may be tripped and needs to be reset.
  • The heating element may be broken and may require replacement.



On But Not Heating

  1. There is a loose, disconnected, or broken wire inside the machine. Remove the top of the machine and inspect the wiring.
  2. The high limit switch of the machine may have tripped.
  3. The outlet the machine is plugged into is not rated to handle the power draw of the machine.



Portafilter Handle Not Fitting On Machine

  1. On all new machines, the portafilter may or may not fit perpendicular to the machine. This is perfectly normal. This is because the grouphead gasket requires time to wear in before this can happen. As long as you can get the portafilter hand tight onto the machine and brew without leaking, then the machine is operating properly.
  2. Too much coffee may be dosed into the portafilter. If there is too much coffee in the portafilter, it can press into the shower screen and prevent the portafilter tightening all the way. Reduce the amount of coffee in the portafilter and try again. If you see an indentation from the shower screen in the grounds, then you’ve added too much.
  3. Check the filter baskets for dings, dents, or any sort of warping. A filter basket that is malformed can prevent the filter basket from sealing up against the group gasket.
  4. The group gasket has slipped out of place or needs replacing. Please refer to the section of this article which discusses gasket issues for instructions on how to test the gasket or replace it.

Diagrams & Manuals

Electrical Diagram:
Hydraulic Diagram:
Machine Manual:
Parts Diagram:
Service Manual
Startup Guide:

Specifications

Basic Specs
Width: 12.68 in.
Height: 14.96 in.
Depth: 18.58 in.
Weight: 51 lbs
Wattage: 1400
Voltage: 115
Housing
Housing Materials: Mirror Finish Stainless Steel
Drip Tray Material: Mirror Finish Stainless Steel
Drip Tray Cover Material: Mirror Finish Stainless Steel
Power Cord Length: 48 in.
Cup Height
Max Cup Height: 3.25 in.
Frothing
Material: Stainless Steel
Steam Wand Style: Commercial Style
Wand Movement: Articulating
Usable Length: 4 in.
Height Off Counter: 4 to 6.5 in.
Number Of Holes: 2
No Burn Wand: Yes
Water Source
Reservoir Or Plumbed: Reservoir
Reservoir Capacity: Plastic
Reservoir Material: Plastic
Reservoir Removable: Yes
Controls
Display Type: Indicator Lights
Pre-infusion: Yes
Low Water Warning: Yes
Pressure Gauges: Brew and Steam
Steam Control: Yes
Cup Warmer
Material: Stainless Steel
Size: 10 X 4 in.
Passive / Active: Passive
Portafilter Data
Material: Chrome Plated Brass
Type: Commercial Style
Quantity Included: 2
Weight: 1.25 lbs
Diameter: 58 mm
Commercial Filter Baskets Included: Single & Double
Bottomless Portafilter Available: Yes
Tamper Size: 58 mm
Brew Group
Material: Chrome Plated Brass
Type: ECM Group Head
Preheat: Yes
Back Flush Capable: Yes
Boiler Data
Number Of Boilers: 1
Brew & Steam Simultaneously: Yes
Brew Boiler Data
Boiler Type: Heat Exchanger
Boiler Wattage: 1400
Boiler Voulme: 2 Liters
Boiler Material: Copper
Boiler Orientation: Horizontal
Element Location: Internal
Brew Boiler Auto Fill: Yes
Insulated: Yes
Steam Boiler Data
Boiler Type: One Boiler for the Brew and Steam
Boiler Voulme: 2.1 L
Boiler Material: Copper
Pump Data
Pump Type: Vibration
Wattage: 115
Max Pressure: 16 Bar
Brew Pressure Adjustability: Yes
Air Remover: Yes
Performance
Initial Heat Up: 600 secs
Recommended Heat Up: 900 secs
Time To Steam (8 oz.): 50 secs
Hot Water Temp (8 oz.): 199
Hot Water Time (8 oz.): 7 secs
Hot Water Recovery Time: 0 secs
Sound Level Brewing: 55 Db
Details
Country Of Manufacture: Germany
NSF Certified: No
Recommended Application: Home Use