Rocket Espresso Cellini Premium Plus V3

The Rocket Espresso Cellini Premium Plus V3 is a Prosumer espresso machine which is the latest iteration of a classic machine design.

Rocket Espresso Cellini Premium Plus V3

Manufacturer: Rocket Espresso
Model Name: Cellini Premium Plus V3
Type: Prosumer

Machine Description

A natural upgrade from its predecessor, the Rocket Espresso Cellini Premium Plus V3 features the same robust commercial components and stainless steel construction with the added functionality of a PID temperature controller. Rocket Espresso has maintained its tradition of using the best components and superior materials. The Rocket Design Engineers have continued to meet the challenge of continuous improvement and have incorporated technically advanced materials and requested user interface components in the design of the machine.

The dual manometer displays located on the front panel monitor both boiler and pump pressures, allowing for finite control of the extraction process. Similar to the other members of the Rocket family, the 1.8L copper boiler is wrapped with a special insulating blanket that produces thermal stability and reduced energy consumption. On this version Rocket has replaced the existing Sirai pressure stat with a PID temperature controller. Located behind the drip tray, the PID monitors the machine's steam temperature and can be adjusted to your preferences.

The celebrated E-61 brew group is known for delivering exceptional temperature stability. Made of chrome-plated marine brass the group is designed to create the perfect environment for espresso extraction. The thermosyphon system\ continuously circulates hot water between the boiler and brew group to keep the machine in brew-ready condition and ensure temperature stability. The system has been carefully designed to maximize water flow (20% higher volume compared to other models).

The copper boiler has always been the heart of this machine, providing heat for brewing, steaming, and hot water. The Design Engineers at Rocket Espresso looked at their iconic nickel-plated brass boiler which has a legendary history of performance and found that with modern thermally efficient materials they could actually improve its performance while still maintaining its greatly appreciated robust characteristics. The result of their thoughtful efforts is an insulated boiler with increased heat retention and thermal stability resulting in greater energy efficiency. The 1.8 liter copper boiler retains the thick lead free brass end plates for increased heat retention – Rocket Espresso is one of the few (or only) companies to use such an endplate; however, the boiler is now wrapped in a special insulating blanket. The changes have resulted in a 30% increase in thermal stability and energy savings up to 22%.

The Cellini Premium Plus V2 now has 2 full, round manometer displays that allow users to easily monitor both pump and boiler pressure allowing the Barista to fully understand the extraction parameters. Rocket Espresso’s patented cool-touch technology ensures that the steam wand is safe to use. The heavy-duty wand has a two-hole tip and is engaged with a large ergonomic control knob at the top of the wand. Below the steam wand is the steam pressure gauge – the machine is at steaming pressure when the gauge measures around 1 bar.

The Rocket Espresso Cellini Premium Plus V2 comes equipped with a low-water-level sensor that will automatically shut off the machine to prevent a dry boiler. A warning system will also alert you when the water reservoir needs to be replenished. The water reservoir has a generous 98oz capacity and is removable for easy cleaning and refilling. Remove the cup tray from the top of the machine, and remove the water reservoir using the handles. Rinse with non-abrasive detergent, and refill at the tap. A water softener can be used to increase the length of time between descaling cycles.

Basic Usage

Getting Started

Adjusting Brew Pressure

Adjusting The PID

Draining The Boilers

Pre-Infusing

Cleaning & Maintenance

Proper machine maintenance is critical for machine function. Most machine failures are caused by lack of cleaning and many manufacturer warranties do not cover cleaning related breakdowns, so it is important to keep a regular maintenance schedule. Listed below is a suggested maintenance schedule for most Prosumer espresso machines:

Descaling

Grouphead Cleaning

The grouphead should be taken apart on a monthly basis to remove scale buildup, remove coffee residues, and improve shot flavor.

How To Clean E61 Brew Group Mushroom, Jet and Top Valve

Steam Wand Cleaning

The steam wand should be cleaned daily once the machine is finished for the day. Milk residues quickly build up on the steam wand, so it's important to keep it clean to prevent blockages from forming.

How to Clean a Steam Wand

Recommended Cleaning Products

The best product for backflushing, cleaning grouphead components, and cleaning filter baskets is a backflushing powder like Urnex Cafiza.

Cleaning Portafilter and Baskets

Troubleshooting

No Crema or Bad Tasting Shots

Typically, issues with crema or the flavor of the shot do not indicate a malfunction of the machine. Instead, this indicates that an adjustment needs to be made in the brewing process or that different beans need to be used.

The following articles review the different variables and offer solutions:

Tamping The Correct Way and The Effects Of Tamping Pressure
Grinding Coffee For Espresso
It is important to use fresh beans, typically beans roasted within the past two weeks are best. Light and medium roasts are best for espresso brewing and richer crema. Storing beans properly is also important, more information can be found here.

If the behavior persists after reviewing these factors then the machine may need to be cleaned. Lack of cleaning can cause burned or bitter flavors, or create flow issues which can result in a weak shot. Navigate to the Cleaning & Maintenance icon above for more information.

Difficulty Frothing

As with brewing, technique is critical to frothing well. Frothing is very sensitive to technique, which has a steep learning curve. If the machine is producing steam then an adjustment to technique may need to be made. The video on the right shows proper frothing technique.

How to Froth and Steam Milk for Latte Art, Cappuccino and More

Many frothing mistakes are common missteps that result in poor or no froth. The video on the right identifies these mistakes and shows how to correct them.

6 Common Milk Frothing Mistakes

It is also important not to overheat your milk. The milk will have the sweetest and most velvety texture between 140-150 F°. As you froth past this point the milk will lose its sweetness, the froth will take on a gummier texture, and eventually the milk will scald and begin to taste burnt. The video on the right explains how to use a frothing thermometer so that the milk is kept within the ideal range.

How To Use a Thermometer to Froth Milk

Flow Issues

The first place to start with any flow issue is cleaning the machine. Before going through these steps please make sure the machine is cleaned according to the Cleaning & Maintenance section of this article.

No Steam From Wand / No Hot Water From Hot Water Tap

Check the brew function on the machine and see if water is able to flow through the machine for this function.

If the brew water is not flowing, either refer to the No Flow At All section of this article
If the brew water flows but is not hot, refer to the On But Not Heating section of this article.

If there's no hot water from the hot water tap, check the steam function of the machine. If you are able to draw steam from the steam wand then the steam boiler must be pressurizing and heating.
If there's no steam from the steam wand, check the hot water function of the machine. If you are able to draw hot water then the steam boiler must be pressurizing and heating, because hot water is expelled from the machine by steam pressure.
Remove the tip from the steam wand and test the flow. If flow is restored then the tip needs to be cleaned and reattached.
If the flow is still blocked then there may be a blockage in the steam wand itself. Clean the wand by using a pipe brush that has synthetic or plastic bristles; metal bristles can damage the wand. Then soak the wand in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for ten minutes. Test flow again.

If the machine is spewing a lot of steam from the top as it is heating up, then the vacuum relief valve may be stuck open. This valve is supposed to close once the machine produces enough steam pressure.

The high limit switch may be tripped. The high limit switch is an internal killswitch which prevents damage to the machine caused by power surges or the machine overheating.
While the machine is open for resetting the high limit switch, check to make sure the wiring to the pressurestat isn't loose or disconnected. Reconnect the wires and see if the steam circuit pressurizes properly.

The steam pressurestat may just need to be adjusted. When adjusting the pressurestat only slight adjustments should be made. Small adjustments will make a large difference in the pressure.

If adjusting the pressurestat the first time did not raise the pressure try adjusting it a few more times. If the pressure is still not raising after several adjustments then the pressurestat is likely broken and will need to be replaced.

Poor Or No Flow From Grouphead

If the steam/hot water for the machine is working fine then there is likely something causing a blockage or pressure issue in the brew circuit. Otherwise refer to the section of this article that discusses the machine not flowing at all.

If a water softener is attached to the inlet line of the machine, it may be preventing water from flowing. Please remove the softener and see if the flow improves.
The grouphead is dirty and needs to be cleaned.

Taking apart the grouphead for manual cleaning is the first step. This should be done on a monthly basis. The instructions can be found here.

- If cleaning the grouphead restores flow to the grouphead, the machine should be immediately backflushed to prevent further flow issues.

There might be a kinked, broken, or loose line somewhere in the machine. Remove the top of the machine and take a look inside to see if you see any obvious issues.
There might be an issue with one of the internal valve assemblies, which may need to be cleaned or replaced.

How To Clean E61 Brew Group Mushroom, Jet and Top Valve

No Hot Water From Tap

Check the brew function on the machine and see if water is able to flow through the machine for this function.
1. If the brew water and steam are not flowing either refer to the No Flow At All section of this article
2. If the brew water flows but is not hot refer to the On But Not Heating section of this article.
Check the steam function of the machine. If you are able to draw steam form the steam wand then the steam boiler must be pressurizing and heating.
Remove the tip from the hot water tap and test the flow. If flow is restored then the tip needs to be cleaned and reattached. Mineral deposits can easily collect in the screen/holes of the hot water tap, so be sure to clean these thoroughly. Soaking the tip in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder will help remove residues more effectively.
If the flow is still blocked then there may be a blockage in the wand of the hot water tap. Clean the wand by using a pipe brush that has synthetic or plastic bristles; metal bristles can damage the wand. Then soak the wand in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for ten minutes. Test flow again.
If the machine is spewing a lot of steam from the top as it is heating up then the vacuum relief valve may be stuck open. This valve is supposed to close once the machine produces enough steam pressure.
The high limit switch may be tripped. The high limit switch is an internal killswitch which prevents damage to the machine caused by power surges or the machine overheating.
While the machine is open for resetting the high limit switch, check to make sure the wiring to the pressurestat isn't loose or disconnected. Reconnect the wires and see if the steam circuit pressurizes properly.
The steam pressurestat may just need to be adjusted. When adjusting the pressurestat only slight adjustments should be made. Small adjustments will make a large difference in the pressure. If adjusting the pressurestat the first time did not raise the pressure try adjusting it a few more times. If the pressure is still not raising after several adjustments then the pressurestat is likely broken and will need to be replaced.

No Flow At All

If the machine is set to the plumbed mode:

First try switching to the reservoir mode temporarily and see if it resolves the issue. If this resolves the flow issue, then the issue is specific to the inlet plumb line, and you should go to the next step. Otherwise keep the machine in reservoir mode and skip down to the next section which deals with testing the "No Flow" issue for the machine in reservoir mode.
Return the machine to plumb mode. The next thing to check is to see if we can isolate where the flow issue is occurring for the plumb line. Try putting the plumb line hosing into an external bucket or container filled with water and see if the machine will draw water from this source. If it can't, then there may be a blockage somewhere in the plumb line itself.
If you are able to draw water from the plumb line, then there may be an issue with the plumbing supplying this line.

If the machine is set to use the reservoir:

If the pump does not sound like it is activating:
- Check to make sure the water tank is filled, and the machine isn't indicating that the water tank is empty.
1. If the tank is empty, refill it.
2. If the tank is full, but the machine thinks the water tank is empty then the tank may not be seated correctly. Make sure there isn't anything blocking the tank from sitting flush inside the machine.
- Remove the cover of the machine and check for any loose or disconnected wires.
- Make sure there aren't any kinked or pinched hoses.
- There may be an issue with the water tank sensor.
- There may be an issue with the pump powering on.
If the pump does sound like it is activating:
- Check the water tank to make sure it is filled and that both the inlet line and the return lines are inserted into the tank. Make sure the inlet line in particular is below the surface of the water.
- If you are using the water softener on the inlet line, try removing it and see if water can flow through the machine.
- Open up the machine. Make sure there aren't any kinked or pinched hoses anywhere.
- There may be a stuck valve inside the machine.

Machine Is Leaking

Between Portafilter & Grouphead

If the machine is leaking from between the grouphead and the portafilter then the grouphead gasket is either pushed out of place and needs to be reinserted properly, or the gasket is worn out. Typically, grouphead gaskets will wear out in approximately 6 months to a year depending on how heavily the machine is used. Premature wear to this gasket can be caused by using excessive force when attaching the portafilter. It is important to distinguish where the leaking is occurring. If the leaking is originating from farther up on the grouphead assembly and then draining down to where the portafilter is attached, then refer to the section of this article which discusses leaking from the grouphead.

If the leaking is coming from between the portafilter and grouphead where you twist the handle on, then the gasket will need to be replaced. You can try using the instructions to clean and reseat the current gasket. If that does not resolve the leak then the gasket will need to be replaced.

The gasket can get stuck in the grouphead from wear or excessive heat exposure. To remove the gasket take some self-tapping screws and partially screw them into the group gasket. Make sure not to go all the way through the gasket because you can scratch/dent the grouphead if you go too far. Then use a pair of pliers to pull on the screws and the gasket will pull out with them.

Replacing the Group Gasket on Your E61 Group Head

From The Grouphead

This section addresses leaking which is coming directly from the grouphead, known as the E-61 style. If the machine is experiencing leaking between the grouphead and the portafilter refer to the section of this article which discusses grouphead gasket issues.

There are multiple valves and o-rings which are part of the E-61 itself. Depending on where the leak is coming from, it may indicate an issue with one or more of these assemblies.

If the leak is coming from the top bolt assembly, then there is an o-ring that is loose, dirty, or worn out.
If the leak is coming from the relief valve on the bottom of the E-61, then there may be an o-ring that is loose/dirty or a valve inside the E-61 that is stuck open.
If cleaning and repairing a particular vale assembly has not worked, then it may be prudent to do a complete cleaning of the E-61 grouphead assembly.

If the machine is leaking between the grouphead and the faceplate of the machine where the grouphead attaches, then there may be a bad gasket or loose bolts.

From Bottom Of Machine

Check the water tank and drip tray to make sure there are no crack or breaks where water can escape. Make sure they are properly positioned on the machine. Check the water tank check valve at the bottom of the tank to make sure it is not broken or cracked.
Open the machine and check all of the connections to make sure they are securely attached.
- Examine the pump and boiler assemblies to see if there are any cracks in them. If the machine was exposed to subfreezing conditions without being properly drained it can cause these components to crack. These parts will need to be replaced if they are cracked.
- Make sure both the inlet line and the outlet line on the pump are securely connected.
- Check the various valves located on top of the boiler assembly.
1. If water is leaking from the relief valves, then the boiler may be overfilling. Distilled, reverse osmosis, and zero water are not compatible with this style of machine as the water level probe depends on minerals in the water to detect its presence. These water types do not contain minerals, and so the machine will continuously fill until it overflows, usually resulting in water leaking from the relief valves.
2. If water is leaking from the relief valves even though you are using a water that contains minerals, then you may need to clean the water level probe.

If the valves are leaking directly from where they screw into the boiler, then they may have a broken seal. Try resealing the valves by using white teflon plumbers tape or food safe permabond and screwing them back into the boiler.
If there are any broken or cracked hoses, or hoses with pinhole leaks, they will need to be replaced.

If you cannot find the source of the leak, it's possible the water you are seeing is from water spilled when refilling the machine, or from the drip tray being out of position. It is also possible to run the unit with the casing off to help identify the source of the leak; precautions should be taken to protect yourself from any exposed wiring or hot water or steam that comes from the machine if you attempt this.

Steam From Top Of Machine

If there is steam coming from the top of the machine then one of the relief valves is venting steam.

If the steam is leaking from the machine while it is heating up, with more and more steam coming from the top as the machine heats more, then the steam is coming from the vacuum relief valve.
- The vacuum relief valve is meant to vent steam until a certain amount of pressure has built up in the boiler. It is normal for this valve to vent steam as the machine is heating. Once enough steam pressure is built up in the boiler the valve will pop closed.
- If the machine is fully heated and the vacuum relief valve is still not closing then it may need to be cleaned.
- If cleaning the vacuum relief valve has not resolved the issue, then the vacuum relief valve may be broken and will need to be replaced.
If the steam is leaking from the machine after it is fully heated, then the pressure relief valve may be relieving excess steam pressure.
- The pressurestat may need to be lowered. If the pressure is set too high the relief valve may open.
- The pressure relief may be stuck open.
- If the relief valve is still opening, then either the pressurestat or the relief valve may be broken and will need to be replaced.

From Steam Wand Or Hot Water Tap

If either wand is leaking from the end of the wand, it means the steam/hot water valve is not fully closed.
- Make sure the knob is securely in the closed position.
- If the knob feels loose, or doesn't appear to be properly engaging, then there may be a loose or broken part in the knob assembly.
- If the leaking persists, then the corresponding valve may need to be replaced.
If the wand is leaking between the tip and the arm of the wand during use, there is an o-ring that is broken, missing, or out of position.
If the wand is leaking from the ball joint, then there may an o-ring that is worn out or out of position.

Machine Not Heating Or Powering On

No Power

Make sure the machine is plugged into an appropriate power source.
- Do not use the machine on a surge protector. This machine has a high power draw, more than a typical kitchen appliance such as a refrigerator or a microwave. Surge protectors are typically not rated to handle the amperage this machine requires.
- Try using the machine on a different outlet, and make sure the machine is the only appliance plugged into that outlet.
Make sure the power switches are functioning properly and not broken. If the machine isn't powering on try pressing and holding the power button in the on position to see if the machine turns on. If you are able to power the machine on this way then the power switch needs to be replaced.
If the machine recently had a leak, had water spilled on it, or any other exposure to moisture then the machine may be shorting out. Try letting the machine sit unplugged for 48 hours to make sure there isn't a short caused by moisture.

Brew Not Heating

Give the machine sufficient time to heat up. A heating time of 20-30 minutes is recommended for prosumer style machines for it to be sufficiently heated for brewing. Make sure the portafilter is attached during heating.
Make sure the heating indicator is on. If the heating indicator is not on, then the machine will not heat. Typically this light will be off if the machine is out of water or not able to fill the boiler.
The pressurestat may be set too low resulting in a lower temperature. Be cautious when adjusting the pressurestat. Setting it too high can cause the machine to overheat, resulting in the pressure relief valve blowing off excess steam.
The high limit switch may be tripped and needs to be reset.
The heating element may be broken and may require replacement.

Steam Not Heating

If the machine is producing steam, but you think it's not producing enough steam, make sure that you are purging the line before frothing. To purge the line simply open the steam knob and let steam come through until it changes from mostly water to mostly steam. When steam leaves the boiler and hits the cold wand it is going to condense back into water. If you do not purge the line it will affect the way the steam wand froths.
Make sure the steam boiler is turned on for the machine. Most prosumer units feature a switch, button, or PID menu option to turn the steam boiler off.
Give the machine sufficient time to heat up. A heating time of 20-30 minutes is recommended for prosumer style machines for it to be sufficiently heated for brewing. Make sure the portafilter is attached during heating.
Make sure the heating indicator is on. If the heating indicator is not on, then the machine will not heat. Typically this light will be off if the machine is out of water or not able to fill the boiler.
The pressurestat may be set too low resulting in a lower brew temperature. Be cautious when adjusting the pressurestat. Setting it too high can cause the machine to overheat, resulting in the pressure relief valve blowing off excess steam.
The high limit switch may be tripped and needs to be reset.
The heating element may be broken and may require replacement.

On But Not Heating

There is a loose, disconnected, or broken wire inside the machine. Remove the top of the machine and inspect the wiring.
The high limit switch of the machine may have tripped.
The outlet the machine is plugged into is not rated to handle the power draw of the machine.

Portafilter Handle Not Fitting On Machine

On all new machines, the portafilter may or may not fit perpendicular to the machine. This is perfectly normal. This is because the grouphead gasket requires time to wear in before this can happen. As long as you can get the portafilter hand tight onto the machine and brew without leaking, then the machine is operating properly.
Too much coffee may be dosed into the portafilter. If there is too much coffee in the portafilter, it can press into the shower screen and prevent the portafilter tightening all the way. Reduce the amount of coffee in the portafilter and try again. If you see an indentation from the shower screen in the grounds, then you’ve added too much.
Check the filter baskets for dings, dents, or any sort of warping. A filter basket that is malformed can prevent the filter basket from sealing up against the group gasket.
The group gasket has slipped out of place or needs replacing. Please refer to the section of this article which discusses gasket issues for instructions on how to test the gasket or replace it.

Diagrams & Manuals


Electrical Diagram:
Hydraulic Diagram:
Machine Manual:
Parts Diagram:
Service Manual
Startup Guide:

Specifications

Basic Specs
Width:	11.8 in.
Height:	15.4 in.
Depth:	16.7 in.
Weight:	46 lbs
Wattage:	1200
Voltage:	120
Housing
Housing Materials:	Stainless Steel
Drip Tray Material:	Stainless Steel
Drip Tray Cover Material:	Stainless Steel
Drip Tray Capacity:	16 oz
Power Cord Length:	56 in.
Frothing
Material:	Stainless Steel
Steam Wand Style:	Commercial
Wand Movement:	Articulating
No Burn Wand:	Yes
Optional Steam Tips Or Wands:	Yes
Water Source
Reservoir Or Plumbed:	Reservoir
Reservoir Capacity:	95 oz
Reservoir Material:	Plastic
Reservoir Removable:	Yes
Controls
Type Of Controls:	Lever
Display Type:	LED
Pre-infusion:	Yes
Low Water Warning:	Yes
Pressure Gauges:	Brew and Steam
Cup Warmer
Material:	Stainless Steel
Size:	10 x 9 in.
Passive / Active:	Passive
Portafilter Data
Material:	Chrome Plated Brass
Type:	Commercial Style
Quantity Included:	2
Weight:	1.25 lbs
Diameter:	58 mm
Commercial Filter Baskets Included:	Single and Double
Bottomless Portafilter Available:	Yes
Tamper Size:	58 mm
Brew Group
Material:	Chrome Plated Brass
Type:	E61
Preheat:	Yes
Back Flush Capable:	Yes
Boiler Data
Number Of Boilers:	1
Brew & Steam Simultaneously:	Yes
Brew Boiler Data
Boiler Type:	Heat Exchanger
Boiler Wattage:	1200
Boiler Voulme:	1.8 Liter
Boiler Material:	Copper with Brass End Plates
Boiler Orientation:	Horizontal
Element Location:	Internal
Brew Boiler Auto Fill:	Yes
Steam Boiler Data
Boiler Type:	One Boiler for the Brew and Steam
Pump Data
Pump Type:	Vibration
Max Pressure:	18 Bar
Brew Pressure Adjustability:	Yes
Air Remover:	Yes
Self Priming:	8-9 Bar
Performance
Recommended Heat Up:	900 secs
Hot Water Recovery Time:	0 secs
Details
Country Of Manufacture:	Italy
Recommended Application:	Home / Commercial