Difference between revisions of "Casa V"

From Whole Latte Love Support Library

(Casa V Page)
 
(edited wording, removed irrelevant info)
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{{Description-Table
 
{{Description-Table
 
|title        = ECM Casa V
 
|title        = ECM Casa V
|machine_image = [[File:ECM_CLASSIKA_PID.jpg|400px|none]]
+
|machine_image = [[File:CasaV_frontal.jpg|400px|none]]
 
|manufacturer  = ECM
 
|manufacturer  = ECM
 
|model_name    = ECM Casa V
 
|model_name    = ECM Casa V
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|buy_button    = Yes
 
|buy_button    = Yes
 
|button_size  = 400px
 
|button_size  = 400px
|button_link  = https://www.wholelattelove.com/products/ecm-classika-pid-espresso-machine
+
|button_link  = https://www.wholelattelove.com/ecm-casav-semi-automatic-espresso-machine
 
}}
 
}}
 
==Basic Usage==
 
==Basic Usage==
Line 31: Line 31:
  
 
===No Crema or Bad Tasting Shots===
 
===No Crema or Bad Tasting Shots===
 
 
{{Troubleshooting-No-Crema-Bad-Shots}}
 
{{Troubleshooting-No-Crema-Bad-Shots}}
  
  
 
===Difficulty Frothing===
 
===Difficulty Frothing===
 
 
{{Troubleshooting-Frothing}}
 
{{Troubleshooting-Frothing}}
  
  
 
===Flow Issues===
 
===Flow Issues===
 +
Addressing flow issues starts with cleaning the machine. Before going through these steps please make sure the machine is cleaned according to the [[#Cleaning & Maintenance|Cleaning & Maintenance]] section of this article.
  
The first place to start with any flow issue is cleaning the machine. Before going through these steps please make sure the machine is cleaned according to the [[#Cleaning & Maintenance|Cleaning & Maintenance]] section of this article.
 
  
 
====No Steam Or Hot Water From Wand====
 
====No Steam Or Hot Water From Wand====
 
+
#Check the brew function on the machine and see if water is able to flow through the machine.
#Check the brew function on the machine and see if water is able to flow through the machine for this function.
+
#*If the brew water is not flowing, either refer to the No Flow At All section of this article
##If the brew water is not flowing either refer to the [[#No Flow At All|No Flow At All]] section of this article
+
#*If the brew water flows but is not hot, refer to the On But Not Heating section of this article.
##If the brew water flows but is not hot refer to the [[#On But Not Heating|On But Not Heating]] section of this article.
+
#The PID may need to be adjusted. Instructions for changing the PID settings can be found in the section of this article that discusses [[#Adjusting The PID|programming the PID]]. The steam setting should be programmed to around 250-260 F°.
+
 
#Turn the hot water function for the wand on and see if the machine can pass hot water through the wand.
 
#Turn the hot water function for the wand on and see if the machine can pass hot water through the wand.
 
#If hot water flows through the wand, then there may have been a blockage preventing the steam from coming through. Try steaming again.
 
#If hot water flows through the wand, then there may have been a blockage preventing the steam from coming through. Try steaming again.
#If cold water flows through the wand, then the high limit switch inside the machine is tripped and needs to be reset. Remove the outer casing and top of the machine in order to access the top of the boiler where the high limit switch is located. The switch has a small button in the center that will need to be pressed a few times to reset it. The high limit switch is listed as part 3 on p.6 of the machine's parts diagram.
+
#Turn the hot water function on for the steam wand to test for flow.
#Remove the tip from the steam wand and test the flow. If flow is restored then the tip needs to be cleaned and reattached.
+
#*If nothing comes through refer to the Only Flow From Brew Head section of this article.
#If the flow is still blocked then there may be a blockage in the steam wand itself. Clean the wand by using a pipe brush that has synthetic or plastic bristles; metal bristles can damage the wand. Then soak the wand in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for ten minutes. Test flow again.
+
#*If water does come through try setting the machine to steam mode again and testing for steam. Running the hot water function can help remove blockages in the steam wand assembly.
#If there still isn't flow then there may be a blockage farther back in the steam circuit. The machine may need to be professionally cleaned to remove the blockage.
+
#Unplug the machine and remove the top to check for any loose or disconnected wires, and resecure these connections.
 +
#If nothing else looks wrong then the steam thermostat has probably failed in will need to be replaced.  
  
{{Troubleshooting-Semi-Brew-Blocked
 
|grouphead_instr = Instructions for cleaning the grouphead can be found on pp.27-28 of the machine manual. Use a grouphead brush or old toothbrush to scrub down the metal components, and then soak them in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for ten minutes before reassembling the grouphead.
 
}}
 
  
====No Flow At All====
+
====Only Flow From Steam Wand====
 +
Try these steps in the following order. Between each step, test the machine for flow. If flow is restored to the machine, descale immediately before returning to normal use.
 +
#Test the flow of the machine without the portafilter attached. If the machine flows without the portafilter locked in, then one of the filter baskets is blocking flow. Clean the baskets by soaking them in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for 30 minutes, or boiling the baskets for 30 minutes.
 +
#Make sure the brew group is completely clean and free of debris. Inspect the shower screen for clogs or blockages by removing it and holding it up to a light source.
  
If the machine is not outputting any water follow the instructions below. Once flow is restored make sure to pull a full 8 oz. of water using the hot water function to ensure the machine is correctly primed.
 
  
 +
 +
====No Flow At All====
 +
If there is no water flow whatsoever, follow the instructions below. Once flow is restored, make sure to pull a full 8 oz. of water using the hot water function to ensure the machine is correctly primed.
 
#Check the water tank to make sure it is filled to the max line.
 
#Check the water tank to make sure it is filled to the max line.
 
#Make sure the tank is sitting flush, and that the water tank valve is properly inserting in the socket.
 
#Make sure the tank is sitting flush, and that the water tank valve is properly inserting in the socket.
#The water tank magnet may be sitting in the machine incorrectly, or the water tank sensor wiring may be loose or disconnected. The machine will not function unless is senses that water is in the tank.
 
##The water tank magnet is embedded in a white plastic float, which can be found in the front left corner of the water tank. The float should be positioned so that the magnet is on the top and is facing the corner of the tank. [[File:ECM Magnet Alignment.png|200px|thumbnail|center|Properly Aligned Magnet]]
 
##The magnet needs to be aligned with this sensor. If the magnet is positioned properly but the machine still thinks there is no water, then there may be a wire loose/disconnected on the sensor. [[File:ECM Magnet Sensor.png|200px|thumbnail|center|Water Tank Sensor]]
 
 
#Activate the hot water function on the machine. You should hear a vibration noise coming from the machine to indicate that the pump is activated.
 
#Activate the hot water function on the machine. You should hear a vibration noise coming from the machine to indicate that the pump is activated.
##If you can't hear anything coming from the machine then there may be a loose or disconnected wire inside of the machine. Unplug the machine and remove the casing to inspect the inside for any loose or disconnected wires, particularly at the pump or the front switch panel. Firmly secure any loose wires and test flow again using the hot water function.
+
#*If you can't hear anything coming from the machine then there may be a loose or disconnected wire inside of the machine. Unplug the machine and remove the casing to inspect the inside for any loose or disconnected wires, particularly at the pump or the front switch panel. Firmly secure any loose wires and test flow again using the hot water function.
##If you hear the machine vibrating then the pump is turning on. Unplug the machine and remove the casing to inspect the water lines inside the machine. Make sure there aren't any loose, kinked, or disconnected hoses anywhere.
+
#*If you hear the machine vibrating then the pump is turning on. Unplug the machine and remove the casing to inspect the water lines inside the machine. Make sure there aren't any loose, kinked, or disconnected hoses anywhere.
 +
#The pump of the machine may be vapor locked, requiring a force prime of the unit.
 +
#*To force prime this unit take a kitchen syringe, turkey baster, or priming pump and fill it with water.
 +
#*Insert the tip of it into the inlet line of the machine.
 +
#*Activate the hot water function of the machine. When you hear the pump kick on quickly force water with your priming tool.
 +
#*Immediately turn the machine off to prevent air from being drawn into the line.
 +
#*Repeat this process multiple times. After 3-4 manual primes you should start to see water spitting from the steam wand. Once this happens you can put the inlet line back into the tank and try to prime the machine normally by pulling 8 oz. of water through the machine using the hot water function.
  
  
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{{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-Bad-Gasket
 
{{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-Bad-Gasket
|gasket_instr = Instructions for replacing the group gasket can be found on pp.27-28 of the machine manual.
+
|gasket_instr =   Instructions for replacing the group gasket can be found on pp.27-28 of the machine manual.  
 
}}
 
}}
  
{{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-E61-Leak
 
|lever_style              = Yes
 
|lever_leak_instr        = A blowout of the lever assembly can be seen on p.8 of the machine's parts diagram. The o-rings that will need to be checked are listed as parts 41 and 39 on this page.
 
###To access these o-rings remove the end cap of the lever assembly using a flathead screwdriver.
 
###Once this is removed the other components of the grouphead assembly can begin to be slipped off. The bolts that the lever slides into can be removed with open ended wrenches or an adjustable wrench.
 
###Inspect the o-rings and make sure they are not damaged. It's possible that they are just dirty and need to be cleaned off and reseated. If they are damaged, broken, or shows signs of chaffing then they will need to be replaced.
 
###Inspect the valve components well to make sure they are intact.
 
###Reassemble the components and see if leaking is resolved.
 
|top_valve_leak_instr    = A blowout of the top valve assembly, known as the mushroom or trumpet valve, can be found on p.8 of the machine's parts diagram. There are a few components which can be contributing to the leaking. There are three o-rings, listed as parts 20, 24, and 26 on this page of the diagram. There is also a valve assembly shown as assembly 28 on the same page.
 
###To access these parts use an open ended wrench or adjustable wrench to remove the smaller top bolt of the E-61. This will give you access to the first o-ring and spring assembly.
 
###To access further down into this part of the grouphead use a wrench to remove the large bolt. This will let you access the other o-ring, another spring assembly, and the other valve assembly.
 
###Inspect all of these components for integrity. Clean any dirty parts and replace any broken parts.
 
###Reassemble the grouphead and see if the leaking is resolved.
 
|bottom_valve_leak_instr  = A blowout of the bottom valve assembly, known as the release valve, can be found on p.8 of the machine's parts diagram. There are two o-rings in this assembly, listed as parts 53 and 58 on the diagram, and two valve assemblies, listed as assemblies 50 and 55 on the diagram, that can be causing the leak.
 
###To access these parts use an open ended wrench or adjustable wrench to remove the smaller bottom bolt. You will be able to access part 58, the o-ring, and assembly 55, one of the valve assemblies. Inspect the parts. If they are dirty clean them off, if they are broken replace them.
 
###To access the next o-ring and valve assembly use a wrench to remove the larger of the bolts. Again, inspect the parts for cleanliness and damage. Clean or replace as needed.
 
###Reassemble the release valve and test to see if the leaking is resolved.
 
|E61_group_cleaning_instr = Instructions for cleaning an entire E-61 can be found by clicking [http://coffeetimex.wikidot.com/e61-group-servicing here].
 
|E61_attach_instr        = There are two possible reasons for the machine to be leaking from here.
 
##The first is that one of the plumb lines connected to the back of the E-61 is not secure resulting in a leak. This will need to be tightened from the inside of the machine. You may see leaking from the bottom of the machine as well if this is the case. Remove the top of the machine and look towards the front of the machine. These lines will be located on the back of the faceplate, opposite to where the grouphead is seated. They are listed as parts 6 and 8 on p.6 of the machine's parts diagram. Use an open ended wrench or adjustable wrench to tighten these down. If the leaking persists you may need to apply white teflon plumbers tape or a sealing compound such as food safe permabond.
 
##The other possibility is that the E-61 group chassis gasket is not sealing tightly, or is worn out or damaged and will need to be replaced. The chassis gasket is listed as part 34 on p.8 of the parts diagram. There are two bolts which secure the E-61 to the machine chassis, causing it to press on the gasket and create a seal. First try tightening these two bolts down. The bolts assembly is listed as parts 29-33 on p.8 of the parts diagram. If tightening these bolts does not resolve the leak, then the chassis gasket will need to be replaced.
 
}}
 
  
 
====From Bottom Of Machine====
 
====From Bottom Of Machine====
 
+
#Check the water tank and drip tray to make sure that are no cracks or breaks where water can escape. Make sure the tank and drip tray are properly inserted into the machine. The valve on the bottom of the water tank needs to be fully inserted into the corresponding socket for it to seal properly.
#Check the water tank and drip tray to make sure that are no cracks or breaks where water can escape. Make sure they are properly positioned on the machine; the valve on the bottom of the water tank needs to be fully inserted into the corresponding socket for it to seal properly.
+
 
#Unplug the machine and remove the cover and top. Check for any loose or broken water connections, or any valve assemblies that are leaking.
 
#Unplug the machine and remove the cover and top. Check for any loose or broken water connections, or any valve assemblies that are leaking.
#Examine the pump and boiler assemblies to see if there are any cracks in them. If the machine was exposed to subfreezing conditions without being properly drained it can cause these parts to crack.
+
#Examine the pump and boiler assemblies to see if there are any cracks in them. If the machine was exposed to subfreezing conditions without being properly drained, the process of water forming into ice can cause these parts to crack.
 +
 
  
 
====From Steam Wand====
 
====From Steam Wand====
  
 
#If the wand is leaking from the tip it means the steam valve is not fully closed.
 
#If the wand is leaking from the tip it means the steam valve is not fully closed.
##Try tightening the knob down firmly. Pressure from the boiler will leak through the wand if the steam valve is not securely closed.
+
#*Try tightening the knob down firmly. Pressure from the boiler will leak through the wand if the steam valve is not securely closed.
##If it feels like the knob is spinning in place then the knob may be broken. Try removing the knob and manually turning the steam valve closed. An adjustable wrench or a pair of pliers can help with this. If this stops the leaking then the square hole in the knob may have been deformed from over tightening, or the bow nut that secures the knob to the valve assembly may be stripped.
+
#*If it feels like the knob is spinning in place then the knob may be broken. Try removing the knob and manually turning the steam valve closed. An adjustable wrench or a pair of pliers can help with this. If this stops the leaking then the square hole in the knob may have been deformed from over tightening, or the bow nut that secures the knob to the valve assembly may be stripped.
##Descale the machine according to the instructions in the [[#Cleaning & Maintenance|Cleaning & Maintenance]] section of this article. Scale buildup inside of the steam valve will prevent the valve from closing fully and can cause permanent damage to the valve. After the machine has been descaled run 4-6 tanks of water through the wand using the machine's hot water function to ensure any debris or scale in the valve is fully removed.
+
#*Descale the machine according to the instructions in the Cleaning & Maintenance section of this article. Scale buildup inside of the steam valve will prevent the valve from closing fully and can cause permanent damage to the valve. After the machine has been descaled run 4-6 tanks of water through the wand using the machine's hot water function to ensure any debris or scale in the valve is fully removed.
##If the leaking persists then the steam valve will need to be replaced.
+
#*If the leaking persists then the steam valve will need to be replaced.
 
#If the wand is leaking from behind the knob assembly, then the nut that secures the valve tap needs to be tightened down. Part 5 on p.8 of the diagram needs to be tightened down.
 
#If the wand is leaking from behind the knob assembly, then the nut that secures the valve tap needs to be tightened down. Part 5 on p.8 of the diagram needs to be tightened down.
 
#If the wand is leaking from where it connects to the machine then the wand is not sealing properly to the supply line. Make sure the wand is properly secured to the supply line by tightening part number 33 on p.8 of the diagram.
 
#If the wand is leaking from where it connects to the machine then the wand is not sealing properly to the supply line. Make sure the wand is properly secured to the supply line by tightening part number 33 on p.8 of the diagram.
 
#If the wand is leaking from the ball joint:
 
#If the wand is leaking from the ball joint:
##First remove the wand arm. This can be done by unscrewing the hex shaped nut at the top of the arm, part 13 on p.8 of the parts diagram.
+
#*First remove the wand arm. This can be done by unscrewing the hex shaped nut at the top of the arm, part 13 on p.8 of the parts diagram.
##Once the wand is removed there may be parts that stick to the valve assembly. Do not lose these parts.
+
#*Once the wand is removed there may be parts that stick to the valve assembly. Do not lose these parts.
##If the leaking was coming from the top of the securing nut, check the o-ring (part 9) to make sure it is clean and not damaged.
+
#*If the leaking was coming from the top of the securing nut, check the o-ring (part 9) to make sure it is clean and not damaged.
##Inspect the tension spring to make sure it is in good condition. The spring should be really firm. If it is easily compressed then it may need to be replaced. At the bottom of the spring are parts 11 and 12. These mate with the ball joint on the wand to let it pivot. Make sure these parts are clean and reinstall them.
+
#*Inspect the tension spring to make sure it is in good condition. The spring should be really firm. If it is easily compressed then it may need to be replaced. At the bottom of the spring are parts 11 and 12. These mate with the ball joint on the wand to let it pivot. Make sure these parts are clean and reinstall them.
  
  
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{{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-Brew-Cold
 
{{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-Brew-Cold
|temp_adjust_style    = PID
 
|pid_adjust_instr      = Instructions for programming the PID can be found in the [[#Adjusting The PID|PID adjustment]] section of this article.
 
 
|hls_instr            = Remove the outer casing and top of the machine in order to access the top of the boiler where the high limit switch is located. The switch has a small button in the center that will need to be pressed a few times to reset it. The high limit switch is listed as part 3 on p.6 of the machine's parts diagram.
 
|hls_instr            = Remove the outer casing and top of the machine in order to access the top of the boiler where the high limit switch is located. The switch has a small button in the center that will need to be pressed a few times to reset it. The high limit switch is listed as part 3 on p.6 of the machine's parts diagram.
 
}}
 
}}
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===Portafilter Handle Not Fitting On Machine===
 
===Portafilter Handle Not Fitting On Machine===
 
 
{{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-Portafilter}}
 
{{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-Portafilter}}
 +
  
 
==Diagrams & Manuals==
 
==Diagrams & Manuals==
  
 
{{Support-Documents
 
{{Support-Documents
|title              = ECM Classika PID
+
|title              = ECM Casa V
|machine_manual    = [[File:CLASSIKA PID Machine Manual.pdf|150px|none]]
+
 
|parts_diagram      = [[File:CLASSIKAII&PID_Parts.pdf|150px|none]]
+
 
}}
 
}}
  
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{{Specifications-Prosumer
 
{{Specifications-Prosumer
 
|basic_specs              = yes
 
|basic_specs              = yes
|width                    = 10 in.
+
|width                    = 8.6 in.
|height                  = 15.75 in.
+
|height                  = 14.96 in.
|depth                    = 17.75 in.
+
|depth                    = 14.56 in.
|weight                  = 41 lbs
+
|weight                  = 30.86 lbs
 
|watts                    = 1200
 
|watts                    = 1200
|volts                    = 115
+
|volts                    = 110V-120V (US)
  
 
|housing                  = yes
 
|housing                  = yes
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|water_source            = yes
 
|water_source            = yes
 
|source_type              = Reservoir
 
|source_type              = Reservoir
|reservoir_capacity      = 95 oz
+
|reservoir_capacity      = 94 oz
 
|reservoir_material      = Plastic
 
|reservoir_material      = Plastic
 
|reservoir_access        = Top
 
|reservoir_access        = Top
Line 195: Line 172:
  
 
|controls                = Yes
 
|controls                = Yes
|control_type            = Lever
+
|control_type            = Push Button
|display_type            = PID
+
|display_type            = Indicator Lights
 
|power_light              = Yes
 
|power_light              = Yes
 
|temp_control            = Yes
 
|temp_control            = Yes
Line 220: Line 197:
 
|brew_group              = yes
 
|brew_group              = yes
 
|group_material          = Chrome Plated Brass
 
|group_material          = Chrome Plated Brass
|group_type              = E61
+
|group_type              = Other
 
|preheat                  = Yes
 
|preheat                  = Yes
 
|solenoid                = Manual
 
|solenoid                = Manual
Line 232: Line 209:
 
|brew_boiler_type        = Single Boiler
 
|brew_boiler_type        = Single Boiler
 
|brew_boiler_wattage      = 1200
 
|brew_boiler_wattage      = 1200
|brew_boiler_volume      = .5 Liter
+
|brew_boiler_volume      = 13 Oz
 
|brew_boiler_material    = Stainless Steel
 
|brew_boiler_material    = Stainless Steel
 
|brew_boiler_orientation  = Vertical
 
|brew_boiler_orientation  = Vertical
 
|brew_element_location    = Internal
 
|brew_element_location    = Internal
|brew_boiler_autofill    = No
+
|brew_boiler_autofill    = Yes
  
 
|pump_data                = yes
 
|pump_data                = yes

Revision as of 14:06, 24 October 2017

ECM Casa V
CasaV frontal.jpg
Manufacturer: ECM
Model Name: ECM Casa V
Type: Semi-Automatic
BUY ME V3.jpg


Basic Usage

Getting Started

Adjusting Brew Pressure

The machine is designed to brew at 9 bar with a flow of about 2 oz in 20-25 seconds. To adjust the brew pressure, install the backflush disc and press the brew button, then turn the adjustment screw located beneath the removable cup warmer until you get to 10 bar on the brew pressure gauge. This will result in 9 bar brew pressure. Turning the adjustment screw clockwise will raise the pressure and turning counterclockwise will lower it.

Note: Brew pressure does not need to be exactly 9 bar for great coffee. It can a little above or below that mark without affecting results in the cup.

Steam Tip Compatibility

ECM and Profitec Steam Tip Compatibility

Cleaning & Maintenance

Proper machine maintenance is critical to proper machine functionality. Most machine failures are caused by a lack of cleaning and maintenance. This is vital, as many manufacturer warranties do not cover cleaning/maintenance related breakdowns. To avoid this, it is imperative to keep a regular maintenance schedule. Listed below is a suggested maintenance rundown for most semi-automatic espresso machines:

Descaling

Descaling the machine should be done on a bimonthly basis using the product recommended by the manufacturer. Descaling is still required even if reverse osmosis, distilled, or zero water is being used. Refer to your machine manual for specific instructions for this unit.

Backflushing

The machine should be backflushed once a week to prevent scale buildup in the brew group and valve assemblies. Instructions for backflushing the machine can be found in the video below or on page 24 of your user manual.

Instructions for backflushing the machine can be found in the video below.

Grouphead Cleaning

The grouphead should be taken apart on a monthly basis to remove scale buildup, remove coffee residues, and improve shot flavor.

Steam Wand Cleaning

Steam wands, steam tips, and nozzle attachments should be cleaned daily after the machine is finished being used for the day. Milk residues quickly build up on steam wands and frothing nozzles, so it is important to keep these clean to prevent blockages from forming.

Replacing Group Gasket

The group gasket will typically need to be replaced approximately every six months to a year. It is not necessary to replace the gasket until leaking at the grouphead occurs, but it is good to have a gasket on hand since the machine cannot be used with a broken gasket. Instructions can be found on page 25 of your user manual.

Recommended Cleaning Products

The compatible descaling products for this machine are Urnex Full Circle. The best product for cleaning metal grouphead components and filter baskets is a backflushing powder like Urnex Cafiza.


Troubleshooting

No Crema or Bad Tasting Shots

Typically, issues with crema or the flavor of the shot do not indicate a malfunction of the machine. Instead, this indicates that an adjustment needs to be made in the brewing process or that different beans need to be used.

The following articles review the different variables and offer solutions:

If the behavior persists after reviewing these factors then the machine may need to be cleaned. Lack of cleaning can cause burned or bitter flavors, or create flow issues which can result in a weak shot. Navigate to the Cleaning & Maintenance icon above for more information.


Difficulty Frothing

As with brewing, technique is critical to frothing well. Frothing is very sensitive to technique, which has a steep learning curve. If the machine is producing steam then an adjustment to technique may need to be made. The video on the right shows proper frothing technique.

Wiki-YT-HowtoFrothSteamMilkLatteArtCappuccino.jpg

How to Froth and Steam Milk for Latte Art, Cappuccino and More



Many frothing mistakes are common missteps that result in poor or no froth. The video on the right identifies these mistakes and shows how to correct them.

Wiki-YT-6CommonMilkFrothingMistakes.jpg

6 Common Milk Frothing Mistakes



It is also important not to overheat your milk. The milk will have the sweetest and most velvety texture between 140-150 F°. As you froth past this point the milk will lose its sweetness, the froth will take on a gummier texture, and eventually the milk will scald and begin to taste burnt. The video on the right explains how to use a frothing thermometer so that the milk is kept within the ideal range.

Wiki-YT-HowToUseAThermometer.jpg

How To Use a Thermometer to Froth Milk



Flow Issues

Addressing flow issues starts with cleaning the machine. Before going through these steps please make sure the machine is cleaned according to the Cleaning & Maintenance section of this article.


No Steam Or Hot Water From Wand

  1. Check the brew function on the machine and see if water is able to flow through the machine.
    • If the brew water is not flowing, either refer to the No Flow At All section of this article
    • If the brew water flows but is not hot, refer to the On But Not Heating section of this article.
  2. Turn the hot water function for the wand on and see if the machine can pass hot water through the wand.
  3. If hot water flows through the wand, then there may have been a blockage preventing the steam from coming through. Try steaming again.
  4. Turn the hot water function on for the steam wand to test for flow.
    • If nothing comes through refer to the Only Flow From Brew Head section of this article.
    • If water does come through try setting the machine to steam mode again and testing for steam. Running the hot water function can help remove blockages in the steam wand assembly.
  5. Unplug the machine and remove the top to check for any loose or disconnected wires, and resecure these connections.
  6. If nothing else looks wrong then the steam thermostat has probably failed in will need to be replaced.


Only Flow From Steam Wand

Try these steps in the following order. Between each step, test the machine for flow. If flow is restored to the machine, descale immediately before returning to normal use.

  1. Test the flow of the machine without the portafilter attached. If the machine flows without the portafilter locked in, then one of the filter baskets is blocking flow. Clean the baskets by soaking them in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for 30 minutes, or boiling the baskets for 30 minutes.
  2. Make sure the brew group is completely clean and free of debris. Inspect the shower screen for clogs or blockages by removing it and holding it up to a light source.


No Flow At All

If there is no water flow whatsoever, follow the instructions below. Once flow is restored, make sure to pull a full 8 oz. of water using the hot water function to ensure the machine is correctly primed.

  1. Check the water tank to make sure it is filled to the max line.
  2. Make sure the tank is sitting flush, and that the water tank valve is properly inserting in the socket.
  3. Activate the hot water function on the machine. You should hear a vibration noise coming from the machine to indicate that the pump is activated.
    • If you can't hear anything coming from the machine then there may be a loose or disconnected wire inside of the machine. Unplug the machine and remove the casing to inspect the inside for any loose or disconnected wires, particularly at the pump or the front switch panel. Firmly secure any loose wires and test flow again using the hot water function.
    • If you hear the machine vibrating then the pump is turning on. Unplug the machine and remove the casing to inspect the water lines inside the machine. Make sure there aren't any loose, kinked, or disconnected hoses anywhere.
  4. The pump of the machine may be vapor locked, requiring a force prime of the unit.
    • To force prime this unit take a kitchen syringe, turkey baster, or priming pump and fill it with water.
    • Insert the tip of it into the inlet line of the machine.
    • Activate the hot water function of the machine. When you hear the pump kick on quickly force water with your priming tool.
    • Immediately turn the machine off to prevent air from being drawn into the line.
    • Repeat this process multiple times. After 3-4 manual primes you should start to see water spitting from the steam wand. Once this happens you can put the inlet line back into the tank and try to prime the machine normally by pulling 8 oz. of water through the machine using the hot water function.


Machine Is Leaking

Between Portafilter & Grouphead

If the machine is leaking from between the grouphead and the portafilter then the grouphead gasket is either pushed out of place and needs to be reinserted properly, or the gasket is worn out. Typically, grouphead gaskets will wear out in approximately 6 months to a year depending on how heavily the machine is used. Premature wear to this gasket can be caused by using excessive force when attaching the portafilter. It is important to distinguish where the leaking is occurring. If the leaking is originating from farther up on the grouphead assembly and then draining down to where the portafilter is attached, then refer to the section of this article which discusses leaking from the grouphead.

If the leaking is coming from between the portafilter and grouphead where you twist the handle on, then the gasket will need to be replaced. Instructions for replacing the group gasket can be found on pp.27-28 of the machine manual. You can try using the instructions to clean and reseat the current gasket. If that does not resolve the leak then the gasket will need to be replaced.

The gasket can get stuck in the grouphead from wear or excessive heat exposure. To remove the gasket take some self-tapping screws and partially screw them into the group gasket. Make sure not to go all the way through the gasket because you can scratch/dent the grouphead if you go too far. Then use a pair of pliers to pull on the screws and the gasket will pull out with them.

Replacing The Group Gasket On Your E61 Machine.pdf

Replacing the Group Gasket on Your E61 Group Head





From Bottom Of Machine

  1. Check the water tank and drip tray to make sure that are no cracks or breaks where water can escape. Make sure the tank and drip tray are properly inserted into the machine. The valve on the bottom of the water tank needs to be fully inserted into the corresponding socket for it to seal properly.
  2. Unplug the machine and remove the cover and top. Check for any loose or broken water connections, or any valve assemblies that are leaking.
  3. Examine the pump and boiler assemblies to see if there are any cracks in them. If the machine was exposed to subfreezing conditions without being properly drained, the process of water forming into ice can cause these parts to crack.


From Steam Wand

  1. If the wand is leaking from the tip it means the steam valve is not fully closed.
    • Try tightening the knob down firmly. Pressure from the boiler will leak through the wand if the steam valve is not securely closed.
    • If it feels like the knob is spinning in place then the knob may be broken. Try removing the knob and manually turning the steam valve closed. An adjustable wrench or a pair of pliers can help with this. If this stops the leaking then the square hole in the knob may have been deformed from over tightening, or the bow nut that secures the knob to the valve assembly may be stripped.
    • Descale the machine according to the instructions in the Cleaning & Maintenance section of this article. Scale buildup inside of the steam valve will prevent the valve from closing fully and can cause permanent damage to the valve. After the machine has been descaled run 4-6 tanks of water through the wand using the machine's hot water function to ensure any debris or scale in the valve is fully removed.
    • If the leaking persists then the steam valve will need to be replaced.
  2. If the wand is leaking from behind the knob assembly, then the nut that secures the valve tap needs to be tightened down. Part 5 on p.8 of the diagram needs to be tightened down.
  3. If the wand is leaking from where it connects to the machine then the wand is not sealing properly to the supply line. Make sure the wand is properly secured to the supply line by tightening part number 33 on p.8 of the diagram.
  4. If the wand is leaking from the ball joint:
    • First remove the wand arm. This can be done by unscrewing the hex shaped nut at the top of the arm, part 13 on p.8 of the parts diagram.
    • Once the wand is removed there may be parts that stick to the valve assembly. Do not lose these parts.
    • If the leaking was coming from the top of the securing nut, check the o-ring (part 9) to make sure it is clean and not damaged.
    • Inspect the tension spring to make sure it is in good condition. The spring should be really firm. If it is easily compressed then it may need to be replaced. At the bottom of the spring are parts 11 and 12. These mate with the ball joint on the wand to let it pivot. Make sure these parts are clean and reinstall them.


Machine Not Heating Or Powering On

No Power

  1. Make sure the machine is plugged into an appropriate power source.
    • Do not use the machine on a surge protector. This machine has a high power draw, more than a typical kitchen appliance such as a refrigerator or a microwave. Surge protectors are typically not rated to handle the amperage this machine requires.
    • Try using the machine on a different outlet, and make sure the machine is the only appliance plugged into that outlet.
  2. Make sure the power switches are functioning properly and not broken. If the machine isn't powering on try pressing and holding the power button in the on position to see if the machine turns on. If you are able to power the machine on this way then the power switch needs to be replaced.
  3. If the machine recently had a leak, had water spilled on it, or any other exposure to moisture then the machine may be shorting out. Try letting the machine sit unplugged for 48 hours to make sure there isn't a short caused by moisture.


Brew Not Heating

  1. Give the machine sufficient time to heat up. A heating time of 20-30 minutes is recommended for prosumer style machines for it to be sufficiently heated for brewing. Make sure the portafilter is attached during heating.
  2. Make sure the heating indicator is on. If the heating indicator is not on, then the machine will not heat. Typically this light will be off if the machine is out of water or not able to fill the boiler.
  3. The pressurestat may be set too low resulting in a lower temperature. Be cautious when adjusting the pressurestat. Setting it too high can cause the machine to overheat, resulting in the pressure relief valve blowing off excess steam.
  4. The high limit switch may be tripped and needs to be reset. Remove the outer casing and top of the machine in order to access the top of the boiler where the high limit switch is located. The switch has a small button in the center that will need to be pressed a few times to reset it. The high limit switch is listed as part 3 on p.6 of the machine's parts diagram.
  5. The heating element may be broken and may require replacement.



On But Not Heating

  1. The water tank magnet may be sitting in the machine incorrectly, or the water tank sensor wiring may be loose or disconnected. The machine will not function unless is senses that water is in the tank.
    1. The water tank magnet is embedded in a white plastic float, which can be found in the front left corner of the water tank. The float should be positioned so that the magnet is on the top and is facing the corner of the tank.
      Properly Aligned Magnet
    2. The magnet needs to be aligned with this sensor. If the magnet is positioned properly but the machine still thinks there is no water, then there may be a wire loose/disconnected on the sensor.
      Water Tank Sensor
  2. There is a loose, disconnected, or broken wire inside the machine. Remove the top of the machine and inspect the wiring.
  3. The high limit switch of the machine may have tripped. Remove the outer casing and top of the machine in order to access the top of the boiler where the high limit switch is located. The switch has a small button in the center that will need to be pressed a few times to reset it. The high limit switch is listed as part 3 on p.6 of the machine's parts diagram. Please note that this machine does not have an auto-fill function for the boiler. The boiler must be manually refilled after any time the steam function has been used. The machine can overheat if the boiler is not filled.
  4. The outlet the machine is plugged into is not rated to handle the power draw of the machine.



Portafilter Handle Not Fitting On Machine

  1. On all new machines, the portafilter may or may not fit perpendicular to the machine. This is perfectly normal. This is because the grouphead gasket requires time to wear in before this can happen. As long as you can get the portafilter hand tight onto the machine and brew without leaking, then the machine is operating properly.
  2. Too much coffee may be dosed into the portafilter. If there is too much coffee in the portafilter, it can press into the shower screen and prevent the portafilter tightening all the way. Reduce the amount of coffee in the portafilter and try again. If you see an indentation from the shower screen in the grounds, then you’ve added too much.
  3. Check the filter baskets for dings, dents, or any sort of warping. A filter basket that is malformed can prevent the filter basket from sealing up against the group gasket.
  4. The group gasket has slipped out of place or needs replacing. Please refer to the section of this article which discusses gasket issues for instructions on how to test the gasket or replace it.


Diagrams & Manuals

ECM Casa V
Electrical Diagram: Not Available
Hydraulic Diagram: Not Available
Machine Manual: Not Available
Parts Diagram: Not Available
Service Manual Not Available
Startup Guide: Not Available

Specifications

Basic Specs
Width: 8.6 in.
Height: 14.96 in.
Depth: 14.56 in.
Weight: 30.86 lbs
Wattage: 1200
Voltage: 110V-120V (US)
Housing
Housing Materials: Stainless Steel
Drip Tray Material: Stainless Steel
Drip Tray Cover Material: Stainless Steel
Drip Tray Capacity: 32 oz
Drain Line Adaptable: No
Tall Legs: Yes
Power Cord Length: 48 in.
Cup Height
Max Cup Height: 3.25 in.
Frothing
Material: Stainless Steel
Steam Wand Style: Commercial Style
Wand Movement: Articulating
Usable Length: 4 in.
Height Off Counter: 4 to 6.5 in.
Number Of Holes: 2
Water Source
Reservoir Or Plumbed: Reservoir
Reservoir Capacity: 94 oz
Reservoir Material: Plastic
Reservoir Access: Top
Reservoir Removable: Yes
Controls
Type Of Controls: Push Button
Display Type: Indicator Lights
Power Light: Yes
Temperature Control: Yes
Low Water Warning: Yes
Pressure Gauges: Brew Only
Brew Temperature Display: Yes
Cup Warmer
Material: Stainless Steel
Size: 10 X 10 in.
Passive / Active: Passive
Portafilter Data
Material: Chrome Plated Brass
Type: Commercial Style
Quantity Included: 1
Weight: 1.25 lbs
Diameter: 58 mm.
Commercial Filter Baskets Included: Single & Double
Bottomless Portafilter Available: Yes
Tamper Size: 58 mm.
Brew Group
Material: Chrome Plated Brass
Type: Other
Preheat: Yes
Three-Way Valve: Manual
Back Flush Capable: Yes
Boiler Data
Number Of Boilers: 1
Brew & Steam Simultaneously: No
Brew Boiler Data
Boiler Type: Single Boiler
Boiler Wattage: 1200
Boiler Voulme: 13 Oz
Boiler Material: Stainless Steel
Boiler Orientation: Vertical
Element Location: Internal
Brew Boiler Auto Fill: Yes
Pump Data
Pump Type: Vibration
Wattage: 52
Max Pressure: 15 Bar
Brew Pressure Adjustability: Yes
Self Priming: Yes
Performance
Initial Heat Up: 300 s.
Recommended Heat Up: 600 s.
Time To Steam (8 oz.): 45 s.
Hot Water Temp (8 oz.): 177 F°
Hot Water Time (8 oz.): 20 s.
Hot Water Recovery Time: 74 s.
Sound Level Brewing: 63 Db
Details
Country Of Manufacture: Italy
NSF Certified: No
Recommended Application: Home Use