Difference between revisions of "Expobar Office Pulser"

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(added replace p-stat temp for expobar)
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|softener_info        = This machine has a water softener cartridge available. The water softener should be replaced every 3 months. To make the water softener more effective it should be recharged on a monthly basis. The following document explains how to recharge the water softener: [[File:EXPOBAR ALL Recharging Water Softener.pdf|250px|thumbnail|center|Water Softener Recharging Instructions]] Replacement water softeners can be purchased [https://www.wholelattelove.com/expobar-water-softener-cartridge here].
 
|softener_info        = This machine has a water softener cartridge available. The water softener should be replaced every 3 months. To make the water softener more effective it should be recharged on a monthly basis. The following document explains how to recharge the water softener: [[File:EXPOBAR ALL Recharging Water Softener.pdf|250px|thumbnail|center|Water Softener Recharging Instructions]] Replacement water softeners can be purchased [https://www.wholelattelove.com/expobar-water-softener-cartridge here].
 
}}
 
}}
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 +
{{Maintenance-Draining-HX-Boiler}}
  
 
== Troubleshooting ==
 
== Troubleshooting ==

Revision as of 14:25, 19 January 2018

The Expobar Office Pulser is a Prosumer espresso machine designed for home or office use.

Expobar Office Pulser
EXPOBAR OFFICE PULSER.jpg
Manufacturer: Expobar
Model Name: Pulser
Type: Prosumer
BUY ME V3.jpg


Basic Usage

Getting Started

Adjusting Brew Pressure

Draining The Boiler


Cleaning & Maintenance

Proper machine maintenance is critical for machine function. Most machine failures are caused by lack of cleaning and many manufacturer warranties do not cover cleaning related breakdowns, so it is important to keep a regular maintenance schedule. Listed below is a suggested maintenance schedule for most Prosumer espresso machines:


Descaling

Single boiler heat exchange machines can be descaled by the consumer. Since descaling is not the primary cleaning method for prosumer style machines it does not need to be done frequently. Descaling can be done on a 3-4 month basis, or whenever the machine starts to display flow issues. If hard water is being used in the machine, or the machine gets heavy usage, the machine may need to be descaled more frequently. The video on the right describes the process for descaling a single boiler heat-exchange machine.

Wiki-YT-HowtoDescaleHeatExchanger.jpg

How to Descale a Heat Exchange Machine


Grouphead Cleaning

The grouphead should be taken apart on a monthly basis to remove scale buildup, remove coffee residues, and improve shot flavor.

Wiki-YT-CleaningE61BrewGroup.jpg

How To Clean E61 Brew Group Mushroom, Jet and Top Valve



Steam Wand Cleaning

The steam wand should be cleaned daily once the machine is finished for the day. Milk residues quickly build up on the steam wand, so it's important to keep it clean to prevent blockages from forming.

Wiki-YT-HowToCleanSteamWand.jpg

How to Clean a Steam Wand


Water Softener

This machine has a water softener cartridge available. The water softener should be replaced every 3 months. To make the water softener more effective it should be recharged on a monthly basis. The following document explains how to recharge the water softener:
Water Softener Recharging Instructions
Replacement water softeners can be purchased here.

Recommended Cleaning Products

The best product for backflushing, cleaning grouphead components, and cleaning filter baskets is a backflushing powder like Urnex Cafiza. The machine can be descaled using Urnex Full Circle Cleaning Liquid.

Wiki-YT-OurFavoriteCleanersforCoffeeEquipment.jpg

Cleaning Portafilter and Baskets




Draining the Boiler

Be sure to drain the boiler(s) whenever you ship or store your machine, as water can freeze and expand inside. This can lead to cracking, fracturing, or otherwise damaging the boiler unnecessarily. The video below shows you how to do this.

Troubleshooting

No Crema or Bad Tasting Shots

Typically, issues with crema or the flavor of the shot do not indicate a malfunction of the machine. Instead, this indicates that an adjustment needs to be made in the brewing process or that different beans need to be used.

The following articles review the different variables and offer solutions:

If the behavior persists after reviewing these factors then the machine may need to be cleaned. Lack of cleaning can cause burned or bitter flavors, or create flow issues which can result in a weak shot. Navigate to the Cleaning & Maintenance icon above for more information.


Difficulty Frothing

As with brewing, technique is critical to frothing well. Frothing is very sensitive to technique, which has a steep learning curve. If the machine is producing steam then an adjustment to technique may need to be made. The video on the right shows proper frothing technique.

Wiki-YT-HowtoFrothSteamMilkLatteArtCappuccino.jpg

How to Froth and Steam Milk for Latte Art, Cappuccino and More



Many frothing mistakes are common missteps that result in poor or no froth. The video on the right identifies these mistakes and shows how to correct them.

Wiki-YT-6CommonMilkFrothingMistakes.jpg

6 Common Milk Frothing Mistakes



It is also important not to overheat your milk. The milk will have the sweetest and most velvety texture between 140-150 F°. As you froth past this point the milk will lose its sweetness, the froth will take on a gummier texture, and eventually the milk will scald and begin to taste burnt. The video on the right explains how to use a frothing thermometer so that the milk is kept within the ideal range.

Wiki-YT-HowToUseAThermometer.jpg

How To Use a Thermometer to Froth Milk



Flow Issues

The first place to start with any flow issue is cleaning the machine. Before going through these steps please make sure the machine is cleaned according to the Cleaning & Maintenance section of this article.


No Steam From Wand / No Hot Water From Hot Water Tap

  • Check the brew function on the machine and see if water is able to flow through the machine for this function.
  • If the brew water is not flowing, either refer to the No Flow At All section of this article
  • If the brew water flows but is not hot, refer to the On But Not Heating section of this article.
  • If there's no hot water from the hot water tap, check the steam function of the machine. If you are able to draw steam from the steam wand then the steam boiler must be pressurizing and heating.
  • If there's no steam from the steam wand, check the hot water function of the machine. If you are able to draw hot water then the steam boiler must be pressurizing and heating, because hot water is expelled from the machine by steam pressure.
  • Remove the tip from the steam wand and test the flow. If flow is restored then the tip needs to be cleaned and reattached.
  • If the flow is still blocked then there may be a blockage in the steam wand itself. Clean the wand by using a pipe brush that has synthetic or plastic bristles; metal bristles can damage the wand. Then soak the wand in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for ten minutes. Test flow again.
  • If the machine is spewing a lot of steam from the top as it is heating up, then the vacuum relief valve may be stuck open. This valve is supposed to close once the machine produces enough steam pressure.
Instructions for cleaning the vacuum relief valve can be found in the video below:


  • The high limit switch may be tripped. The high limit switch is an internal killswitch which prevents damage to the machine caused by power surges or the machine overheating. Instructions for resetting the high limit switch can be found in this document:
    High Limit Switch Reset Instructions
  • 2-Wire Pressurestat
    While the machine is open for resetting the high limit switch, check to make sure the wiring to the pressurestat isn't loose or disconnected. Reconnect the wires and see if the steam circuit pressurizes properly.
  • The steam pressurestat may just need to be adjusted. When adjusting the pressurestat only slight adjustments should be made. Small adjustments will make a large difference in the pressure.
Instructions for adjusting the pressurestat can be found in the document below. Please note that if your machine was bought used or repaired at any point the 2-Wire style of pressurestat may have been replaced with a 3-Wire version.
2-Wire Pressurestat Adjustment Instructions


If adjusting the pressurestat the first time did not raise the pressure try adjusting it a few more times. If the pressure is still not raising after several adjustments then the pressurestat is likely broken and will need to be replaced. A replacement pressurestat can be purchased here.



Poor Or No Flow From Grouphead

If the steam/hot water for the machine is working fine then there is likely something causing a blockage or pressure issue in the brew circuit. Otherwise refer to the section of this article that discusses the machine not flowing at all.

  • If a water softener is attached to the inlet line of the machine, it may be preventing water from flowing. Please remove the softener and see if the flow improves.
  • The grouphead is dirty and needs to be cleaned.
    • If cleaning the grouphead restores flow to the grouphead, the machine should be immediately backflushed to prevent further flow issues.

Backflushing instructions can be found in the tech document from the previous step.


Maintaining Your Espresso Machine - Backflushing


  • There might be a kinked, broken, or loose line somewhere in the machine. Remove the top of the machine and take a look inside to see if you see any obvious issues.
  • There might be an issue with one of the internal valve assemblies, which may need to be cleaned or replaced.
Wiki-YT-HowToCleanE61BrewGroupMushroomJetTopValve.jpg

How To Clean E61 Brew Group Mushroom, Jet and Top Valve


Instructions for taking the OPV valve assembly apart for cleaning can be found below:
OPV Cleaning Instructions



No Hot Water From Tap

  1. Check the brew function on the machine and see if water is able to flow through the machine for this function.
    1. If the brew water and steam are not flowing either refer to the No Flow At All section of this article
    2. If the brew water flows but is not hot refer to the On But Not Heating section of this article.
  2. Check the steam function of the machine. If you are able to draw steam form the steam wand then the steam boiler must be pressurizing and heating.
  3. Remove the tip from the hot water tap and test the flow. If flow is restored then the tip needs to be cleaned and reattached. Mineral deposits can easily collect in the screen/holes of the hot water tap, so be sure to clean these thoroughly. Soaking the tip in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder will help remove residues more effectively.
  4. If the flow is still blocked then there may be a blockage in the wand of the hot water tap. Clean the wand by using a pipe brush that has synthetic or plastic bristles; metal bristles can damage the wand. Then soak the wand in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for ten minutes. Test flow again.
  5. If the machine is spewing a lot of steam from the top as it is heating up then the vacuum relief valve may be stuck open. This valve is supposed to close once the machine produces enough steam pressure. Instructions for cleaning the vacuum relief valve can be found in the video below:
  6. The high limit switch may be tripped. The high limit switch is an internal killswitch which prevents damage to the machine caused by power surges or the machine overheating. Instructions for resetting the high limit switch can be found in this document:
    High Limit Switch Reset Instructions
  7. 2-Wire Pressurestat
    While the machine is open for resetting the high limit switch, check to make sure the wiring to the pressurestat isn't loose or disconnected. Reconnect the wires and see if the steam circuit pressurizes properly.
  8. The steam pressurestat may just need to be adjusted. When adjusting the pressurestat only slight adjustments should be made. Small adjustments will make a large difference in the pressure. Instructions for adjusting the pressurestat can be found in the document below. Please note that if your machine was bought used or repaired at any point the 2-Wire style of pressurestat may have been replaced with a 3-Wire version.
    2-Wire Pressurestat Adjustment Instructions
    If adjusting the pressurestat the first time did not raise the pressure try adjusting it a few more times. If the pressure is still not raising after several adjustments then the pressurestat is likely broken and will need to be replaced. A replacement pressurestat can be purchased here.


No Flow At All

  1. If the pump does not sound like it is activating:
    1. Check to make sure the water tank is filled, and the machine isn't indicating that the water tank is empty.
      1. If the tank is empty, refill it.
      2. If the tank is full, but the machine thinks the water tank is empty, then the tank may not be seated correctly. Make sure there isn't anything blocking the tank from sitting flush inside the machine.
    • Remove the cover of the machine, and check for any loose or disconnected wires.
    • Make sure there aren't any kinked or pinched hoses.
    • There may be an issue with the water tank sensor. The water tank sensor may be wired incorrectly. This video below will explain how to rewire the sensor correctly:
    • There may be an issue with the pump powering on. This video will explain how to test for electrical pump issues:
  2. If the pump does sound like it is activating:
    • Check the water tank to make sure it is filled and that both the inlet line and the return lines are inserted into the tank. Make sure the inlet line in particular is below the surface of the water.
    • If you are using the water softener on the inlet line, try removing it and see if water can flow through the machine.
    • Open up the machine. Make sure there aren't any kinked or pinched hoses anywhere.
    • There may be a stuck valve inside the machine. Check to make sure the fill valve is operational. This video will explain how to see if the fill valve is activating properly:


Machine Is Leaking

Between Portafilter & Grouphead

If the machine is leaking from between the grouphead and the portafilter then the grouphead gasket is either pushed out of place and needs to be reinserted properly, or the gasket is worn out. Typically, grouphead gaskets will wear out in approximately 6 months to a year depending on how heavily the machine is used. Premature wear to this gasket can be caused by using excessive force when attaching the portafilter. It is important to distinguish where the leaking is occurring. If the leaking is originating from farther up on the grouphead assembly and then draining down to where the portafilter is attached, then refer to the section of this article which discusses leaking from the grouphead.

If the leaking is coming from between the portafilter and grouphead where you twist the handle on, then the gasket will need to be replaced. Instructions for changing the gasket can be found here:
Group Gasket Changing Instructions
A replacement group gasket can be purchased here. You can try using the instructions to clean and reseat the current gasket. If that does not resolve the leak then the gasket will need to be replaced.

The gasket can get stuck in the grouphead from wear or excessive heat exposure. To remove the gasket take some self-tapping screws and partially screw them into the group gasket. Make sure not to go all the way through the gasket because you can scratch/dent the grouphead if you go too far. Then use a pair of pliers to pull on the screws and the gasket will pull out with them.

Replacing The Group Gasket On Your E61 Machine.pdf

Replacing the Group Gasket on Your E61 Group Head





From Bottom Of Machine

  1. Check the water tank and drip tray to make sure there are no cracks or breaks where water can escape. Make sure they are properly positioned on the machine.
  2. The machine should have both an inlet line and a return line. Make sure the return line is inside of the water tank. If you do not see the return line it may have fallen inside of the machine and will need to be retrieved and put back into the water tank.
  3. Open the machine and check all of the connections to make sure they are securely attached.
    • Examine the pump and boiler assemblies to see if there are any cracks in them. If the machine was exposed to subfreezing conditions without being properly drained it can cause these components to crack. These parts will need to be replaced if they are cracked.
    • Make sure both the inlet line and the outlet line on the pump are securely connected.
    • Check the various valves located on top of the boiler assembly.
    1. If water is leaking from the relief valves, then the boiler may be overfilling. Distilled, reverse osmosis, and zero water are not compatible with this style of machine as the water level probe depends on minerals in the water to detect its presence. These water types do not contain minerals, and so the machine will continuously fill until it overflows, usually resulting in water leaking from the relief valves.
    2. If water is leaking from the relief valves even though you are using a water that contains minerals, then you may need to clean the water level probe.
  1. If the valves are leaking directly from where they screw into the boiler, then they may have a broken seal. Try resealing the valves by using white teflon plumbers tape or food safe permabond and screwing them back into the boiler.
  2. If there are any broken or cracked hoses, or hoses with pinhole leaks, they will need to be replaced.
  1. If you cannot find the source of the leak, it's possible the water you are seeing is from water spilled when refilling the machine, or from the drip tray being out of position. It is also possible to run the unit with the casing off to help identify the source of the leak; precautions should be taken to protect yourself from any exposed wiring or hot water or steam that comes from the machine if you attempt this.



Steam From Top Of Machine

If there is steam coming from the top of the machine then one of the relief valves is venting steam.

  1. If the steam is leaking from the machine while it is heating up, with more and more steam coming from the top as the machine heats more, then the steam is coming from the vacuum relief valve.
    • The vacuum relief valve is meant to vent steam until a certain amount of pressure has built up in the boiler. It is normal for this valve to vent steam as the machine is heating. Once enough steam pressure is built up in the boiler the valve will pop closed.
    • If the machine is fully heated and the vacuum relief valve is still not closing then it may need to be cleaned.
    • If cleaning the vacuum relief valve has not resolved the issue, then the vacuum relief valve may be broken and will need to be replaced. A replacement vacuum relief can be purchased here
  2. If the steam is leaking from the machine after it is fully heated, then the pressure relief valve may be relieving excess steam pressure.
    1. The pressurestat may need to be lowered. The pressurestat should not read any higher than 1.2 bar.
    • If the pressure exceeds this level, the relief valve may open. The pressurestat should be lowered.
    • If the pressure is down to 1 bar or less and the relief valve is still open, then it may be stuck open. The pressure relief valve is attached to the top of a t-junction, which is listed as part 7 on p.11 of the machine's parts diagram. The relief valve is not pictured on the diagram, but a picture of the part is shown below:
      Pressure Relief Valve
      Make sure the machine is turned off and cooled down. Then use an open ended wrench or adjustable wrench to unscrew this part from the boiler. Soak the valve in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder, and use a grouphead cleaning brush to remove any major scale deposits on the part.



From Steam Wand Or Hot Water Tap

  1. If either wand is leaking from the end of the wand, it means the steam/hot water valve is not fully closed.
    • Make sure the knob is securely in the closed position.
    • If the knob feels loose, or doesn't appear to be properly engaging, then there may be a loose or broken part in the knob assembly.
    1. Pop the cover of the knob off. This can typically be done by hand, but a flathead screw driver can be used as well.
    2. Once the cover is removed the knob should look like this. If the knob is spinning in place continuously then the clip is broken. The clip is shown below, with a red arrow pointing to it:
      Knob with cover removed.
    • Descale the machine according to the instructions in the Cleaning & Maintenance section above. Scale buildup inside of the steam/hot water valves will prevent the valves from closing fully.
    • If the leaking persists, then the corresponding valve may need to be replaced.
  2. If the wand is leaking between the tip and the arm of the wand during use, there is an o-ring that is broken, missing, or out of position.
    1. The steam tip o-ring is easy to access. Simply remove the steam tip and there will be a small o-ring between the tip the wand arm. Inspect this o-ring for damage and clean it.
    2. The hot water tip is a little more complicated, but still easily accessed and cleaned.
      1. First unscrew the entire tip assembly from the wand arm.
        Hot Water With Tip Removed
      2. There will be an o-ring between the tip assembly and the wand arm. If the leaking was coming from here, then this o-ring needs to be cleaned and repositioned, or if it is damaged it will need to be replaced.
        The red arrow points to the described o-ring
      3. If the leaking was coming from farther down on the tip, then the tip will need to be disassembled further to troubleshoot. To disassemble the tip further simply twist the two halves of the tip assembly in opposite directions.
        Twist in the direction of the arrows shown.
      4. Once the tip is apart it will separate into four separate pieces. There will be three metal pieces and another o-ring. Inspect the o-ring for cleanliness and damage. The metal pieces can be soaked in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder to remove and scale buildup on them.
        The disassembled hot water tip.
  3. If the wand is leaking from the ball joint, then there may an o-ring that is worn out or out of position.



Machine Not Heating Or Powering On

No Power

  1. Make sure the machine is plugged into an appropriate power source.
    • Do not use the machine on a surge protector. This machine has a high power draw, more than a typical kitchen appliance such as a refrigerator or a microwave. Surge protectors are typically not rated to handle the amperage this machine requires.
    • Try using the machine on a different outlet, and make sure the machine is the only appliance plugged into that outlet.
  2. Make sure the power switches are functioning properly and not broken. If the machine isn't powering on try pressing and holding the power button in the on position to see if the machine turns on. If you are able to power the machine on this way then the power switch needs to be replaced.
  3. If the machine recently had a leak, had water spilled on it, or any other exposure to moisture then the machine may be shorting out. Try letting the machine sit unplugged for 48 hours to make sure there isn't a short caused by moisture.
  4. The video below also systematically goes through the electronic systems on an Expobar unit. It may help you identify the cause of the issue.


Brew Not Heating

  1. Give the machine sufficient time to heat up. A heating time of 20-30 minutes is recommended for prosumer style machines for it to be sufficiently heated for brewing. Make sure the portafilter is attached during heating.
  2. Make sure the heating indicator is on. If the heating indicator is not on, then the machine will not heat. Typically this light will be off if the machine is out of water or not able to fill the boiler.
  3. The pressurestat may be set too low resulting in a lower temperature. Be cautious when adjusting the pressurestat. Setting it too high can cause the machine to overheat, resulting in the pressure relief valve blowing off excess steam. Instructions for adjusting the pressurestat can be found in the document below. Please note that if your machine was bought used or repaired at any point the 2-Wire style of pressurestat may have been replaced with a 3-Wire version.
    2-Wire Pressurestat Adjustment Instructions
  4. The high limit switch may be tripped and needs to be reset. Instructions for resetting the high limit switch can be found in this document:
    High Limit Switch Reset Instructions
  5. The heating element may be broken and may require replacement. Instructions for testing the heating element can be found in the video below:
    It is highly suggested that if the machine has a bad heating element that the machine be sent in for repair. Replacement of this element is complex, and can cause damage to the machine if not done properly. We suggest reviewing the instructions below before purchasing an element. If you are not comfortable with any part of the instructions you should not attempt the replacement.
    Element Replacement Instructions



Steam Not Heating

  • If the machine is producing steam, but you think it's not producing enough steam, make sure that you are purging the line before frothing. To purge the line simply open the steam knob and let steam come through until it changes from mostly water to mostly steam. When steam leaves the boiler and hits the cold wand it is going to condense back into water. If you do not purge the line it will affect the way the steam wand froths.
  • Make sure the steam boiler is turned on for the machine. Most prosumer units feature a switch, button, or PID menu option to turn the steam boiler off.
  • Give the machine sufficient time to heat up. A heating time of 20-30 minutes is recommended for prosumer style machines for it to be sufficiently heated for brewing. Make sure the portafilter is attached during heating.
  • Make sure the heating indicator is on. If the heating indicator is not on, then the machine will not heat. Typically this light will be off if the machine is out of water or not able to fill the boiler.
  • The pressurestat may be set too low resulting in a lower brew temperature. Be cautious when adjusting the pressurestat. Setting it too high can cause the machine to overheat, resulting in the pressure relief valve blowing off excess steam. Instructions for adjusting the pressurestat can be found in the document below. Please note that if your machine was bought used or repaired at any point the 2-Wire style of pressurestat may have been replaced with a 3-Wire version.
    2-Wire Pressurestat Adjustment Instructions
  • The high limit switch may be tripped and needs to be reset. Instructions for resetting the high limit switch can be found in this document:
    High Limit Switch Reset Instructions
  • The heating element may be broken and may require replacement. Instructions for testing the heating element can be found in the video below:
  1. It is highly suggested that if the machine has a bad heating element that the machine be sent in for repair. Replacement of this element is complex, and can cause damage to the machine if not done properly. We suggest reviewing the instructions below before purchasing an element. If you are not comfortable with any part of the instructions you should not attempt the replacement.
    Element Replacement Instructions



On But Not Heating

  1. There is a loose, disconnected, or broken wire inside the machine. Remove the top of the machine and inspect the wiring.
  2. The high limit switch of the machine may have tripped. Instructions for resetting the high limit switch can be found in this document:
    High Limit Switch Reset Instructions
  3. The outlet the machine is plugged into is not rated to handle the power draw of the machine.



Replacing the Pressurestat on your Expobar

To replace the pressurestat on your Expobar, you will need to remove the housing and locate the stat. The installation is quite simple and will only require a few tools. Housing removal has not been included in this instructional as it may vary from machine to machine.

Replacing the Pressure Stat on your Expobar Machine.pdf

Replacing the Pressurestat On Your Expobar



Portafilter Handle Not Fitting On Machine

  1. On all new machines, the portafilter may or may not fit perpendicular to the machine. This is perfectly normal. This is because the grouphead gasket requires time to wear in before this can happen. As long as you can get the portafilter hand tight onto the machine and brew without leaking, then the machine is operating properly.
  2. Too much coffee may be dosed into the portafilter. If there is too much coffee in the portafilter, it can press into the shower screen and prevent the portafilter tightening all the way. Reduce the amount of coffee in the portafilter and try again. If you see an indentation from the shower screen in the grounds, then you’ve added too much.
  3. Check the filter baskets for dings, dents, or any sort of warping. A filter basket that is malformed can prevent the filter basket from sealing up against the group gasket.
  4. The group gasket has slipped out of place or needs replacing. Please refer to the section of this article which discusses gasket issues for instructions on how to test the gasket or replace it.

Diagrams & Manuals

Expobar Office Pulser
Electrical Diagram: Not Available
Hydraulic Diagram: OFFICE PULSER Hydraulic Diagram.pdf
Machine Manual: OFFICE LEVER Machine Manual.pdf
Parts Diagram: OFFICE PULSER Machine Manual.pdf
Service Manual Not Available
Startup Guide: Not Available

Specifications

Basic Specs
Width: 9.5 in.
Height: 15.25 in.
Depth: 16.5 in.
Weight: 36 lbs
Wattage: 1469
Voltage: 120
Housing
Housing Materials: Stainless Steel
Drip Tray Material: Plastic
Drip Tray Cover Material: Stainless Steel
Drip Tray Capacity: 20 oz.
Power Cord Length: 40 in.
Cup Height
Max Cup Height: 3.5 in.
Frothing
Material: Stainless Steel
Steam Wand Style: Commercial Style
Wand Movement: Articulating
Usable Length: 5.75 in.
Height Off Counter: 6.75 in.
Number Of Holes: 1
Optional Steam Tips Or Wands: Yes
Water Source
Reservoir Or Plumbed: Reservoir
Reservoir Capacity: 93 oz.
Reservoir Material: Plastic
Reservoir Removable: Yes
Controls
Type Of Controls: Rocker
Display Type: LED
Pre-infusion: Yes
Low Water Warning: Yes
Cup Warmer
Material: Stainless Steel
Size: 10 in. x 8 in.
Passive / Active: Passive
Portafilter Data
Material: Chrome Plated Brass
Type: Commercial Style
Quantity Included: 1
Weight: 1 lb
Diameter: 58 mm.
Commercial Filter Baskets Included: Single & Double
Ground, E.S.E. Pod And Capsule Compatible: Pod Kit Available
Bottomless Portafilter Available: Yes
Tamper Size: 58 mm.
Brew Group
Material: Chrome Plated Brass
Type: E61
Preheat: Yes
Three-Way Valve: Manual
Capsule/Pod Friendly: Pod Kit Available
Back Flush Capable: Yes
Boiler Data
Number Of Boilers: 1
Brew & Steam Simultaneously: Yes
Brew Boiler Data
Boiler Type: Heat Exchanger
Boiler Wattage: 1250
Boiler Voulme: 1.7 Liter
Boiler Material: Copper
Boiler Orientation: Vertical
Element Location: Internal
Brew Boiler Auto Fill: Yes
Insulated: Yes
Steam Boiler Data
Boiler Type: One Boiler For Brew & Steam
Pump Data
Pump Type: Vibration
Wattage: 41
Max Pressure: 15 Bar
Brew Pressure Adjustability: Yes
Air Remover: Yes
Self Priming: 8 to 9 bar
Performance
Initial Heat Up: 420 s.
Recommended Heat Up: 900 s.
Time To Steam (8 oz.): 9 s.
Hot Water Temp (8 oz.): 105 F°
Hot Water Time (8 oz.): 13 s.
Sound Level Brewing: 60 Db
Details
Country Of Manufacture: Spain
Recommended Application: Home/Commercial