Gaggia Classic

The Gaggia Classic is a semi-automatic espresso machine which has been a favorite in the industry for home espresso brewing.

Gaggia Classic
Manufacturer: Gaggia
Model Name: Classic
Model Number: 14101
Type: Semi-Automatic

Machine Description

The current iteration of the Classic has replaced the nickel plated carbon steel housing with brushed stainless steel, which is durable and will not rust or flake over time. The portafilter handle was also upgraded to include a stainless steel dispensing spout. This improved the consistency of the espresso flow when split between 2 demitasse cups or shot glasses. The main design of the portafilter remained the same at one pound of chrome plated brass with a commercial size 58mm diameter. The Classic also uses a chrome plated brass grouphead, which improves heat retention during shot pulls.The Classic now utilizes a pannarello style frothing nozzle on the steam wand. This nozzle attachment makes it easier for users to create a tight microfoam.Gaggia has replaced the pod adapter with a new style of basket. The new basket acts as both a single pressurized basket and a ESE pod filter, which means it can be used with ground coffee and ESE pods. There is also a double pressurized shot basket available for the unit.The machine draws 1425 Watts which is used to power the 55 Watt Ulka pump and the boiler, which utilizes two separate heating elements for rapid heating. The heating elements are embedded directly into the boiler and do not come into contact with the water. This effectively turns the entire boiler into a heating element allowing for faster more even heating, and prevents corrosion to the elements. A 3-way solenoid valve is also included in this version, which relieves pressure that develops during the brewing process, allowing for drier coffee pucks.

Cleaning & Maintenance

The compatible descaling products for this machine are either Gaggia Decalcifier or Durgol Swiss Espresso Descaler. The best product for cleaning grouphead components and filter baskets is a backflushing powder like Urnex Cafiza.

Troubleshooting

No Crema or Bad Tasting Shots

Bad tasting shots or shots with poor crema do not typically indicate an issue with the machine; rather it indicates that an adjustments needs to be made to the brewing technique or some other external factor.

The following articles review the different variables and offer solutions:

• Tamping The Correct Way and The Effects Of Tamping Pressure
• Grinding Coffee For Espresso
• It is important to use fresh beans, typically beans roasted within the past two weeks are best. Light and medium roasts are best for espresso brewing and higher crema content. Storing beans properly is also important, more information can be found here.

If the behavior persists after reviewing these factors then the machine may need to be cleaned. Lack of cleaning can cause burned or bitter flavors, or create flow issues which can result in a weak shot. Refer to the Cleaning & Maintenance portion of this article for more information.

Difficulty Frothing

As with brewing, frothing is highly dependent on technique. If the machine is producing steam then an adjustment to technique may need to be made. Frothing is very sensitive to technique, so there is a steep learning curve. The video below shows proper frothing technique:

There are also common frothing mistakes which are made that will result in poor or no froth. The video below identifies these mistakes and shows how to correct them:

This machine also utilizes a special nozzle attachment called a pannarello. The pannarello nozzle needs to be regularly cleaned and properly attached to the machine in order to function. The video below reviews how to attach the pannarello properly. When disassembling the pannarello please make sure all of the separate pieces shown in the video are present. The pannarello should be taken apart frequently and the separate parts should be soaked in some hot water to help remove any built-up milk residues.

Inside the tube of the pannarello nozzle there should be a plastic insert which must be present in order for this nozzle attachment to work. If this insert is missing or improperly inserted the machine will not be able to create froth.

File:InsertOutOfPlace.jpg

Alternatively you can try frothing on the machine without the pannarello attachment. The naked wand can also produce a tight microfoam, and is preferred by some users. The major disadvantage of frothing with the naked wand is that it reduces the length of the steam wand by several inches.

Flow Issues

The first place to start with any flow issue is cleaning the machine. Before going through these steps please make sure the machine is cleaned according to the Cleaning & Maintenance section of this article.

No Steam From Wand

1. Check the brew function on the machine and see if water is able to flow through the machine for this function.
   1. If the brew water is not flowing either refer to the No Flow At All section of this article
   2. If the brew water flows but is not hot refer to the On But Not Heating section of this article.
2. Turn the hot water function on for the steam wand to test for flow.
   1. If nothing comes through refer to the Only Flow From Brew Head section of this article.
   2. If water does come through try setting the machine to steam mode again and testing for steam. Running the hot water function can help remove blockages in the steam wand assembly.
3. Unplug the machine and remove the top to check for any loose or disconnected wires, and resecure these connections.
4. If nothing else looks wrong then the steam thermostat has probably failed in will need to be replaced. Instructions for replacing the thermostat can be found here.

Only Flow From Steam Wand

Try these steps in the following order. Between each step test the machine for flow. If flow is restored to the machine do an immediate descale of the unit before returning to normal use.

1. Test the flow of the machine without the portafilter attached. If the machine flows with the portafilter removed then one of the filter baskets is blocking the flow. Clean the baskets by soaking them in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for 30 minutes, or boiling the baskets for 30 minutes.
2. Make sure the grouphead is completely clean and free of debris. Be sure to completely disassemble and clean the grouphead according to the instructions here.
3. Clean the solenoid valve according to the instructions found here:
4. Do a complete boiler clean and rebuild of the machine using the instructions here.

Only Flow From Brew Head

1. Remove the pannarello nozzle attachment from the steam wand and test the flow using the hot water function. If flow is restored then the pannarello nozzle needs to be fully disassembled and cleaned and then properly reattached.
2. If the flow is still blocked then there may be a blockage in the steam wand itself. Clean the wand by using a pipe brushes that has synthetic or plastic bristles; metal bristles can damage the wand. Then soak the wand in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for ten minutes. Test flow again.
3. The solenoid valve may be blocked and should be cleaned according to the instructions found here:

No Flow At All

If the machine is not outputting any water follow the instructions below. Once flow is restored make sure to pull a full 8 oz. of water using the hot water function to ensure the machine is correctly primed.

1. Check the water tank to make sure it is filled to the max line.
2. Make sure the inlet lines are in place and not blocked by anything.
3. Activate the hot water function on the machine. You should hear a vibration noise coming from the machine to indicate that the pump is activated.
   1. If you can't hear anything coming from the machine then there may be a loose or disconnected wire inside of the machine. Unplug the machine and open up the top to inspect the inside for any loose or disconnected wires, particularly at the pump or the front switch panel. Firmly secure any loose wires and test flow again using the hot water function.
   2. If you hear the machine vibrating then the pump is turning on. Unplug the machine and open the top to inspect the inlet line to make sure it isn't kinked or pinched. If the hose is kinked straighten it out and then plug the machine in again to test for flow.
4. The pump of the machine may be vapor locked, requiring a force prime of the unit.
   1. To force prime this unit take a kitchen syringe, turkey baster, or priming pump and fill it with water.
   2. Insert the tip of it into the inlet line of the machine.
   3. Activate the hot water function of the machine. When you hear the pump kick on quickly force water with your priming tool.
   4. Immediately turn the machine off to prevent air from being drawn into the line.
   5. Repeat this process multiple times. After 3-4 manual primes you should start to see water spitting from the steam wand. Once this happens you can put the inlet line back into the tank and try to prime the machine normally by pulling 8 oz. of water through the machine using the hot water function.

Machine Is Leaking

2-Way Pin

Coffee Spraying From Portafilter

This machine utilizes pressurized baskets. If coffee is spraying from the spouts of your portafilter during brewing then one of the pressurized baskets is being used without the required 2-way pin in place. A pressurized basket can be identified by holding the basket it up to light; pressurized baskets will only have one hole that you can see through. The 2-way pin must be inserted into the portafilter below the basket when pressurized baskets are being used. Non-pressurized baskets, the ones that have a lot of holes you can see through if held to light, do not require the use of a 2-way pin.

Between Portafilter & Grouphead

If the machine is leaking from between the grouphead and the portafilter then the grouphead gasket is either pushed out of place and needs to be reinserted properly, or the gasket is worn out. Typically grouphead gaskets will wear out from 6 months to a year depending on how heavily the machine is used. Premature wear to this gasket can be caused by using excessive force when attaching the portafilter, or leaving the machine on for long periods of time without use. It is important to distinguish where the leaking is occurring. If the gasket is leaking from farther up in the machine and coming down around the grouphead then refer to the section of this article which discusses leaking from the top of the machine instead.

If the leaking is coming from between the portafilter and grouphead where you twist the handle on, then the gasket will need to be replaced. Instructions for replacing the gasket of this machine can be found here, and replacement gaskets are available for purchase here. You can try using the instructions to clean and reseat the current gasket. If that does not resolve the leak then the gasket will need to be replaced.

The gasket can get stuck in the grouphead from wear or excessive heat exposure. To remove the gasket take some self-tapping

From Top Of Machine

A leak from the top (or head) of the machine typically indicates a loose connection or broken part inside the machine. If the leaking is coming from between the portafilter and the grouphead then refer to the section of this article which covers changing the group gasket. Otherwise follow these steps to identify the source of the leak. It may be necessary to run the machine with the top removed in order to identify the leak.

1. Turn the machine off and unplug it.
2. Open the top of the machine. Check for any loose hoses, broken hoses or hoses with pinhole leaks, or any other fittings that are leaking.
   1. If you find a loose hose reconnect it to the appropriate fitting.
   2. Hoses that are broken or have pinhole leaks will need to be replaced.
   3. Other loose fittings can typically be resecured by screwing the part down. Plumbers tape or a sealing compound may be necessary to provide a good seal.
3. Check the pump connections to make they are secure.
   1. Examine the pump to see if there are any cracks in it. If the machine was exposed to subfreezing conditions without being properly drained it can cause the pump to crack. Replace the pump if it is cracked.
   2. Make sure both the inlet line and the outlet line on the pump are securely connected. Check the brass elbow connection on the pressure side of the pump. If there is leaking coming from this elbow joint then it will need to be resecured. Apply a foodsafe sealing compound to the threading of the elbow and screw it back into the pump. Let the compound cure for 24 hours and the leak should be gone.
4. Examine the boiler assembly.
   1. If there is leaking coming from between the boiler and the grouphead there are two possible causes.
      1. If there is leaking all around the edge where these assemblies meet they are not sealing properly.
         1. First try tightening the eight allen screws that secure the boiler and grouphead together. There are four allen screws at the bottom of the boiler assembly inside the machine, and the other four bolts are located externally beneath the head of the machine.
         2. If it continues to leak then the o-ring that seals these two assemblies has slipped out of place or is worn out and needs to be replaced. Try unscrewing the boiler and the grouphead by removing the eight allen screws mentioned in the previous steps. Clean the o-ring off and reseat it and screw the boiler assembly back into place.
         3. If this does not resolve the leak then the o-ring is worn out and needs to be replaced. Replacement o-rings can be purchased here.
      2. If the leaking is mainly coming from the side of the boiler that faces the front of the machine then the boiler is probably cracked. This will happen if the machine is exposed to subfreezing temperatures without being drain properly, or the machine is dropped. The boiler will need to be replaced.
   2. If you find a crack anywhere else on the boiler then the machine was exposed to subfreezing temperatures without being drained properly or the machine was dropped. The boiler will need to be replaced.
5. Examine the decompression duct to the left of the boiler and the steam wand to the right of the boiler. If either of these are leaking make sure the fittings are tightened down securely.

From Bottom Of Machine

1. Check the water tank and drip tray to make sure that are no cracks or breaks where water can escape. Make sure they are properly positioned on the machine.
2. Ensure that the return line is sitting inside the water tank. If the tube is outside of the tank, or pushed up into the machine it will cause a leak. Position it so that it is sitting inside the water tank.
3. Make sure the decompression duct is installed. The decompression duct is a metal tube located to the left of the grouphead. If this tube is missing, water relieved after brewing will not be properly directed into the drip tray.

From Steam Wand

1. If the wand is leaking from the end of the wand it means the steam valve is not fully closed.
   1. Try tightening the knob down firmly. Pressure from the boiler will leak through the wand if the steam valve is not securely closed.
   2. If it feels like the knob is spinning in place then the knob may be broken. Try removing the knob and manually turning the steam valve closed. An adjustable wrench or a pair of pliers can help with this. If this stops the leak then the steam knob will need to be replaced.
   3. Descale the machine according to the instructions in the Cleaning & Maintenance section of this article. Scale buildup inside of the steam valve will prevent the valve from closing fully and can cause permanent damage to the valve. After the machine has been descaled run 4-6 tanks of water through the wand using the machine's hot water function to ensure any debris or scale in the valve is fully removed.
   4. If the leaking persists then the steam valve will need to be replaced. Instructions for replacing the steam valve can be found here.
2. If the wand is leaking from where it connects to the machine then the wand is not sealing properly to the steam valve assembly.
   1. Make sure the wand is securely screwed in. At the top of the wand is a hex shaped stainless steel threaded fitting which screws into a corresponding brass fitting that is part of the steam valve assembly. Use an open ended wrench or adjustable wrench to make sure these two parts are firmly screwed together.
   2. If tightening the wand onto the steam valve assembly does not resolve the leaking issue then the o-ring that goes between these parts may be dirty, damaged, or out of place. Unscrew the assemblies and inspect the o-ring. Clean the o-ring off, reseat it around the threaded end of the wand, and screw the wand back into the machine. If the leaking persists this o-ring will need to be replaced.

Machine Not Heating Or Powering On

No Power

1. Make sure the machine is plugged into an appropriate power source.
   1. Do not use the machine on a surge protect. This machine has a high power draw, more than a typical kitchen appliance such as a refrigerator or a microwave. Surge protectors are typically not rated to handle the amperage this machine requires.
   2. Try using the machine on a different outlet, and make sure the machine is the only appliance plugged into that outlet.
   3. If the machine is being used on a GFI outlet try moving it to a non-GFI outlet. GFI outlet are not typically rated to handle the kind of power load this machine requires, and are frequently sensitive to the type of current fluctuations that this machine causes during normal use.
   4. If the correct outlet type is being used and the machine is still not powering, try testing another appliance on the same outlet.
2. The power cord of the machine can be removed from the back of the machine as well as from the outlet. Check to make sure the cord is firmly secured in its corresponding socket on the machine. Check the cord for any damage. If the cord is secure and the machine is still not powering on then it may be the cord itself causing the issue. The cord is a standard computer power cord. Swap the cord out with another 3-prong computer power cord and see if the machine powers on. If it does then the machine needs a new power cord.
3. Turn the power button off and unplug the machine. Remove the top of the machine.
   1. Look towards the back of the machine where the power cord goes into the machine. There will be a terminal with two leads. Attached to the leads should be a blue wire on the top lead, and a grey wire on the bottom lead. If one of these wires is loose or detached the machine won't power on. Resecure them and test the power.
   2. Check the machine for any other loose, disconnected, or burned wires. Check the front switch panel in particular, on the terminals for the power button.
4. If the machine recently had a leak, had water spilled on it, or any other exposure to moisture then the machine may be shorting out. Try letting the machine sit unplugged for 48 hours to make sure there isn't a short caused by moisture.