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− | The Profitec Pro 300 is a [[:Category:Prosumers|Prosumer]] espresso machine that features a commercial dual boiler system in a compact home machine. {{Description-Table
| + | {{Getting-Started |
− | |title = Profitec Pro 300 | + | |brand = Profitec |
− | |machine_image = [[File:PROFITEC_PRO_300.jpg|400px|none]] | + | |machine_type = Prosumers |
− | |manufacturer = [[:Category:Profitec|Profitec]] | + | |product_banner = [[File: Wiki_ProductPageBanner_1200x175_Profitec300_v1.jpg|link=]] |
− | |model_name = Pro 300 | + | |product_page_title = Profitec Pro 300 |
− | |type = [[:Category:Prosumers|Prosumer]] | + | |page_type = set up |
− | |buy_button = Yes | + | |section1 = Install It |
− | |button_size = 400px | + | |anchor1 = Install |
− | |button_link = https://www.wholelattelove.com/products/profitec-pro-300-dual-boiler-espresso-machine | + | |section2 = Get it Good & Hot |
| + | |anchor2 = Heating |
| + | |section3 = Get a Handle on your Tamp |
| + | |anchor3 = Tamping |
| + | |section4 = Brew Better |
| + | |anchor4 = Brew Better |
| + | |section5 = Brew the Best You Can Brew |
| + | |anchor5 = Brew Best |
| + | |section6 = Get Frothing |
| + | |anchor6 = Get Frothing |
| + | |section7 = Froth Better |
| + | |anchor7 = Froth Better |
| + | |section8 = Frothing and Habits to Avoid |
| + | |anchor8 = Frothing Mistakes |
| + | |section9 = Steam & the Heating Sweet Spot |
| + | |anchor9 = Steaming Temperature |
| + | |section10 = Steam with Thermometers |
| + | |anchor10 = Steam with Thermometers |
| + | |section11 = Don't Break It |
| + | |anchor11 = Preventative Maintenance |
| + | |section12 = Steam Tip Compatibility |
| + | |anchor12 = Steam Tip Compatibility |
| }} | | }} |
− | ==Basic Usage==
| + | {{Set-Up-Content |
− | | + | |dual_boiler = yes |
− | ===Getting Started=== | + | |e61 = no |
− | | + | }} |
− | {{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tQXm25pMXds|480|center}}
| + | ---- |
− | | + | |
− | ===Reading The Brew Gauge===
| + | |
− | | + | |
− | The brew pressure gauge is only meaningful when the machine is actively brewing. While the machine is standing by the gauge may move around, sit at zero, or show the the circuit is pressurized; this does not mean anything. This gauge is only accurate while the brew circuit is activated during brewing. A simple test of the machine's brew pressure can be completed by using the backflush disc.
| + | |
− | #Insert the backflush disc into the portafilter and attach it to the machine.
| + | |
− | #Activate the brew function. The gauge will fall to zero, and then begin pressurizing.
| + | |
− | #After about 10-15 seconds the pressure should read 8-11 Bar pressure. If your machine does this then there is nothing wrong with the brew function or brew gauge, the machine is operating to spec.
| + | |
− | | + | |
− | ===Opening Housing on the Pro 300===
| + | |
− | | + | |
− | # Have the machine powered off and cold.
| + | |
− | # Remove the water reservoir.
| + | |
− | # Remove the four screws on top of the machine (numbers 2 and 18 on the top of drawing 1 of the diagram [link directly to the page?]), set them aside. Lift off the lid.
| + | |
− | # Remove the four or six screws (depending on the age of the machine) around the bottom of the housing (labeled as number 4 on the bottom of drawing 1 of the diagram).
| + | |
− | # Remove the 2 screws attaching the outer case (part 11) to the front panel (part 6).
| + | |
− | # Push the housing down for the inner screws to clear the keyhole opening (the housing is all one piece, the keyhole opening is shown central to the diagram on part 11), and then pull the housing off.
| + | |
− | | + | |
| ===Steam Tip Compatibility=== | | ===Steam Tip Compatibility=== |
− | | + | {{Content-Columns |
− | [[File:Profitec-pro-steam-tip-comp.pdf|250px|thumbnail|center|ECM and Profitec Steam Tip Compatibility]]
| + | |column_1 = |
− | | + | : There are several different steam tips for ECM and its sister brand Profitec, some of which are interchangeable and others not. Consult this comprehensive document on the topic for more information. |
− | == Cleaning & Maintenance ==
| + | |column_2 = |
− | | + | [[File:ECM_and_Profitec_Steam_Tip_Compatibility.pdf|center|link=https://wiki.wholelattelove.com/File:ECM_and_Profitec_Steam_Tip_Compatibility.pdf]] |
− | {{Maintenance-Prosumer}} | + | |media_caption = |
− | | + | Steam Tip Compatibility |
− | == Troubleshooting ==
| + | |
− | | + | |
− | ===No Crema or Bad Tasting Shots===
| + | |
− | | + | |
− | {{Troubleshooting-No-Crema-Bad-Shots}}
| + | |
− | | + | |
− | | + | |
− | ===Difficulty Frothing===
| + | |
− | | + | |
− | {{Troubleshooting-Frothing}}
| + | |
− | | + | |
− | | + | |
− | ===Flow Issues===
| + | |
− | | + | |
− | The first place to start with any flow issue is cleaning the machine. Before going through these steps please make sure the machine is cleaned according to the [[#Cleaning & Maintenance|Cleaning & Maintenance]] section of this article.
| + | |
− | | + | |
− | ====No Steam From Wand====
| + | |
− | | + | |
− | #Check the brew function on the machine and see if water is able to flow through the machine for this function.
| + | |
− | ##If the brew water is not flowing either refer to the [[#No Flow At All|No Flow At All]] section of this article
| + | |
− | ##If the brew water flows but is not hot refer to the [[#On But Not Heating|On But Not Heating]] section of this article.
| + | |
− | #Check the hot water function of the machine. If you are able to draw hot water then the steam boiler must be pressurizing and heating, because hot water is expelled from the machine by steam pressure.
| + | |
− | #Check the steam gauge of the machine. Does it show pressure? Typical range for the steam gauge should be 1-1.2 Bar.
| + | |
− | ##If the gauge is within the 1-1.2 Bar range then the steam wand is likely blocked.
| + | |
− | ###Remove the tip from the steam wand and test the flow. If flow is restored then the tip needs to be cleaned and reattached.
| + | |
− | ###If the flow is still blocked then there may be a blockage in the steam wand itself. Clean the wand by using a pipe brush that has synthetic or plastic bristles; metal bristles can damage the wand. Then soak the wand in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for ten minutes. Test flow again.
| + | |
− | ###If there still isn't flow then there may be a blockage farther back in the steam circuit. The machine may need to be professionally cleaned to remove the blockage.
| + | |
− | ##If the gauge is not reaching 1-1.2 Bar, but it is pressurizing some, then the steam pressurestat may just need to be adjusted.
| + | |
− | ###When adjusting the pressurestat only slight adjustments should be made. Small adjustments will make a large difference in the pressure.
| + | |
− | ####Unplug the machine and remove the cover.
| + | |
− | ####Once the cover is removed the pressurestat can be found on the right hand side of the machine. [[File:PRO 300 Pressurestat.jpg|400px|thumbnail|center|The pressurestat is circled in red.]]
| + | |
− | ####Use a flathead screwdriver to make an adjustment to the pressure. Only make a 1/4 turn adjustment, as a small adjustment can make a significant change in the steam pressure. To raise the pressure turn clockwise; to lower the pressure turn counterclockwise. [[File:PRO 300 Pressurestat Adjustment Screw.jpg|400px|thumbnail|center|Pressurestat Adjustment Screw]]
| + | |
− | ###If adjusting the pressurestat the first time did not raise the pressure try adjusting it a few more times. If the pressure is still not raising after several adjustments then the pressurestat is likely broken and will need to be replaced.
| + | |
− | ##If the gauge sometimes reaches 1-1.2 Bar, but flicks around a lot or randomly drops to zero, or is always sitting at zero then the steam boiler is not building pressure for some reason.
| + | |
− | ###The high limit switches may be tripped. The high limit switch is an internal killswitch which prevents damage to the machine caused by power surges or the machine overheating. Resetting the high limit switches is simple. In the center of each switch is a small black button that you will need to press a few times to reset the switch. The high limit switches are listed as part 2 on p.8 of the machine's parts diagram.
| + | |
− | ###While the machine is open for resetting the high limit switch, check to make sure the wiring to the pressurestat isn't loose or disconnected. Reconnect the wires and see if the steam circuit pressurizes properly.
| + | |
− | ###If there weren't any disconnected wires then the pressurestat will need to be replaced.
| + | |
− | | + | |
− | {{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-Brew-Blocked
| + | |
− | |grouphead_instr = Instructions for taking the grouphead apart for cleaning can be found on pp.24-25 of the machine's manual. Use a grouphead brush or old toothbrush to scrub down the metal components, and then soak them in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for ten minutes before reassembling the grouphead.
| + | |
− | |backflush_instr = Instructions for backflushing a lever style machine are found in the video below: {{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1Vkfj83uyg|480|center}}
| + | |
− | |valve_instr = <br />
| + | |
− | ##Try adjusting the OPV to see if the brew pressure changes. Turn the machine off, and then remove the cover.
| + | |
− | ##The OPV will be located on the back left side of the machine; the adjustment screw will be facing straight upwards. [[File:PRO 300 OPV Assembly.jpg|400px|thumbnail|center|OPV assembly, with the adjustment screw on the top.]]
| + | |
− | ##To raise the pressure simply turn the screw on the OPV clockwise. Only have turn adjustments should be made at a time, as a half turn will result in a large pressure difference. Caution should be used to not raise the pressure too high, since this machine does not have a brew pressure gauge.
| + | |
| }} | | }} |
| | | |
− | ====No Hot Water From Tap====
| |
− |
| |
− | #Check the brew function on the machine and see if water is able to flow through the machine for this function.
| |
− | ##If the brew water and steam are not flowing either refer to the [[#No Flow At All|No Flow At All]] section of this article
| |
− | ##If the brew water flows but is not hot refer to the [[#On But Not Heating|On But Not Heating]] section of this article.
| |
− | #Check the steam function of the machine. If you are able to draw steam form the steam wand then the steam boiler must be pressurizing and heating.
| |
− | #Check the steam gauge of the machine. Does it show pressure? Typical range for the steam gauge should be 1-1.2 Bar.
| |
− | ##If the gauge is within the 1-1.2 Bar range then the hot water tap is likely blocked.
| |
− | ###Remove the tip from the hot water tap and test the flow. If flow is restored then the tip needs to be cleaned and reattached. Mineral deposits can easily collect in the screen/holes of the hot water tap, so be sure to clean these thoroughly. Soaking the tip in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder will help remove residues more effectively.
| |
− | ###If the flow is still blocked then there may be a blockage in the wand of the hot water tap. Clean the wand by using a pipe brush that has synthetic or plastic bristles; metal bristles can damage the wand. Then soak the wand in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for ten minutes. Test flow again.
| |
− | ###If there still isn't flow then there may be a blockage farther back in the hot water circuit. The machine may need to be professionally cleaned to remove the blockage.
| |
− | ##If the gauge is not reaching 1-1.2 Bar, but it is pressurizing some, then the steam pressurestat may just need to be adjusted.
| |
− | ###When adjusting the pressurestat only slight adjustments should be made. Small adjustments will make a large difference in the pressure.
| |
− | ####Unplug the machine and remove the cover.
| |
− | ####Once the cover is removed the pressurestat can be found on the right hand side of the machine. [[File:PRO 300 Pressurestat.jpg|400px|thumbnail|center|The pressurestat is circled in red.]]
| |
− | ####Use a flathead screwdriver to make an adjustment to the pressure. Only make a 1/4 turn adjustment, as a small adjustment can make a significant change in the steam pressure. To raise the pressure turn clockwise; to lower the pressure turn counterclockwise. [[File:PRO 300 Pressurestat Adjustment Screw.jpg|400px|thumbnail|center|Pressurestat Adjustment Screw]]
| |
− | ###If adjusting the pressurestat the first time did not raise the pressure try adjusting it a few more times. If the pressure is still not raising after several adjustments then the pressurestat is likely broken and will need to be replaced.
| |
− | ##If the gauge sometimes reaches 1-1.2 Bar, but flicks around a lot or randomly drops to zero, or is always sitting at zero then the steam boiler is not building pressure for some reason.
| |
− | ###The high limit switches may be tripped. The high limit switch is an internal killswitch which prevents damage to the machine caused by power surges or the machine overheating. Resetting the high limit switches is simple. In the center of each switch is a small black button that you will need to press a few times to reset the switch. The high limit switches are listed as part 2 on p.8 of the machine's parts diagram.
| |
− | ###While the machine is open for resetting the high limit switch, check to make sure the wiring to the pressurestat isn't loose or disconnected. Reconnect the wires and see if the hot water circuit pressurizes properly.
| |
− | ###If there weren't any disconnected wires then the pressurestat will need to be replaced.
| |
− |
| |
− | ====No Flow At All====
| |
− |
| |
− | {{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-No-Flow-At-All
| |
− | |water_supply = Reservoir
| |
− | |sensor_instr = <br />
| |
− | ###Remove the drip tray from the front and make sure the plumb switch is turned off.
| |
− | ###Remove the reservoir and make sure the float magnet is facing the sensor. The magnet on the float should be facing the front left corner of the tank, where it meets up with the sensor.
| |
− | ###Check to make sure the wire for the water level sensor isn't loose/disconnected on the inside of the machine.
| |
− | |pump_instr = Check to make sure the pump doesn't have any loose/disconnected wires.
| |
− | }}
| |
− |
| |
− |
| |
− | ===Machine Is Leaking===
| |
− |
| |
− | {{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-Bad-Gasket
| |
− | |gasket_instr = Instructions for replacing the group gasket can be found on pp.24-25 of the machine manual.
| |
− | }}
| |
− |
| |
− | {{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-Bottom-Leak
| |
− | |water_source = Reservoir
| |
− | |level_probe_instr = The water level probe can be cleaned by removing it from the boiler. First make sure the machine is unplugged and fully cooled off. The water level probe is listed as part 6 on p.8 of the parts diagram.
| |
− | ####The probe is secured to the boiler by a two bolt assembly. Use an open ended wrench or adjustable wrench to loosen the smaller upper bolt. Once this nut is loosened the probe should be able to slide out.
| |
− | ####Once the probe is removed clean it off. Soak the probe in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder.
| |
− | ####If the probe has a large amount of scale buildup on it a scrubby sponge can be used to remove the scale buildup. Do not use a metal scrubber as it can damage the probe.
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− | ####Also examine the wiring of the probe to make sure it is intact and is attached to the power board of the machine.
| |
− | }}
| |
− |
| |
− | {{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-Wand-Leak
| |
− | |knob_instr = <br />
| |
− | ##Slide the knob off. It will simply pull straight off.
| |
− | ##Once removed the shaft that the knob attaches to will be exposed. The shaft will have a D shape to it, and the back of the knob will have a corresponding D shaped hole on the back of it. Make sure this hold isn't broken or warped, causing the knob not to engage the shaft.
| |
− | ##If the knob appears to be in tact, then the valve may be stuck. Use a pair of pliers to directly turn the shaft to set the valve to the closed position. Put the knob back on and see if the valve opens and closes normally now.
| |
− | |tip_instr = <br />
| |
− | ##The steam tip o-ring is easy to access. Simply unscrew the steam tip and there will be a small o-ring between the tip the wand arm. Inspect this o-ring for damage and clean it.
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− | ##The hot water tip is a little more complicated, but still easily accessed and cleaned.
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− | ###First unscrew the tip assembly from the wand arm.
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− | ###There will be an o-ring between the tip assembly and the wand arm. If the leaking was coming from here, then this o-ring needs to be cleaned and repositioned, or if it is damaged it will need to be replaced. [[File:PRO_700_Hot_Water_Tip_Removed.jpg|200px|thumbnail|center|The red arrow points to the o-ring for the hot water tip.]]
| |
− | ###If the leaking was coming from farther down on the tip, then the tip will need to be disassembled further to troubleshoot. To disassemble the tip further simply twist the two halves of the tip assembly in opposite directions. Alternatively you can screw the tip back onto the machine and then just unscrew the bottom half of the tip; this will give you a better grip on the tip to unscrew the two halves. [[File:PRO_700_Hot_Water_Tip_End_Removed.jpg|400px|thumbnail|center]]
| |
− | ###Once the tip is apart it will separate into three separate pieces. There will be three metal pieces and another o-ring. Inspect the o-ring for cleanliness and damage. The metal pieces can be soaked in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder to remove any scale buildup on them. [[File:PRO_700_Hot_Water_Tip_Parts.jpg|400px|thumbnail|center|The disassembled hot water tip.]]
| |
− | }}
| |
− |
| |
− | ===Machine Not Heating Or Powering On===
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− |
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− | {{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-No-Power}}
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− |
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− | {{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-Brew-Cold
| |
− | |temp_adjust_style = PID
| |
− | |pid_adjust_instr = The Pro 300 uses a Gicar PID, utilized by other Profitec machines. The video below shows how to program the PID on a Pro 700. The procedure is the same for the 300 machine. {{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oh95qgfsdqk|480|center}}
| |
− | |hls_instr = The high limit switch is an internal killswitch which prevents damage to the machine caused by power surges or the machine overheating. Resetting the high limit switches is simple. In the center of each switch is a small black button that you will need to press a few times to reset the switch. The high limit switches are listed as part 2 on p.8 of the machine's parts diagram.
| |
− | }}
| |
− |
| |
− | {{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-Steam-Cold
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− | |steam_test_instr = Instructions for doing a steam test for the machine can be found in the video below: {{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iM_kVx-Fr3M|480|center}}
| |
− | #:The machine in the video will be of a different brand, but the same procedure will apply to this machine.
| |
− | |temp_adjust_style = Pressurestat
| |
− | |pstat_adjust_instr = <br />
| |
− | ##When adjusting the pressurestat only slight adjustments should be made. Small adjustments will make a large difference in the pressure.
| |
− | ##Unplug the machine and remove the cover.
| |
− | ##Once the cover is removed the pressurestat can be found on the right hand side of the machine. [[File:PRO 300 Pressurestat.jpg|400px|thumbnail|center|The pressurestat is circled in red.]]
| |
− | ##Use a flathead screwdriver to make an adjustment to the pressure. Only make a 1/4 turn adjustment, as a small adjustment can make a significant change in the steam pressure. To raise the pressure turn clockwise; to lower the pressure turn counterclockwise. [[File:PRO 300 Pressurestat Adjustment Screw.jpg|400px|thumbnail|center|Pressurestat Adjustment Screw]]
| |
− | |hls_instr = The high limit switch is an internal killswitch which prevents damage to the machine caused by power surges or the machine overheating. Resetting the high limit switches is simple. In the center of each switch is a small black button that you will need to press a few times to reset the switch. The high limit switches are listed as part 2 on p.8 of the machine's parts diagram.
| |
− | }}
| |
− |
| |
− | {{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-No-Heat
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− | |dual_boiler = Yes
| |
− | |hls_reset_instr = The high limit switch is an internal killswitch which prevents damage to the machine caused by power surges or the machine overheating. Resetting the high limit switches is simple. In the center of each switch is a small black button that you will need to press a few times to reset the switch. The high limit switches are listed as part 2 on p.8 of the machine's parts diagram.
| |
− | }}
| |
− |
| |
− | ===Portafilter Handle Not Fitting On Machine===
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− |
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− | {{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-Portafilter}}
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− |
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− | ==Diagrams & Manuals==
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− |
| |
− | {{Support-Documents
| |
− | |title = Profitec Pro 300
| |
− | |machine_manual = [[File:PRO 300 Machine Manual.pdf|150px|none]]
| |
− | |parts_diagram = [[File:PRO 300 Parts Diagram.pdf|150px|none]]
| |
− | }}
| |
− |
| |
− | ==Specifications==
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− |
| |
− | {{Specifications-Prosumer
| |
− | |basic_specs = Yes
| |
− | |width = 10.04 in.
| |
− | |height = 15.16 in.
| |
− | |depth = 16.34 in.
| |
− | |weight = 39.7 lbs
| |
− | |watts = 1600
| |
− | |volts = 110
| |
− |
| |
− | |housing = yes
| |
− | |housing_material = Stainless Steel
| |
− | |drip_tray_material = Stainless Steel
| |
− | |drip_tray_cover_material = Stainless Steel
| |
− | |drip_tray_capacity = 32 oz
| |
− | |drain_line_adaptable = No
| |
− | |power_cord_storage = No
| |
− | |tall_legs = Yes
| |
− |
| |
− | |cup_height = Yes
| |
− | |adjustable_height = No
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− |
| |
− | |frothing = yes
| |
− | |wand_material = Stainless Steel
| |
− | |wand_style = Commercial Style
| |
− | |wand_movement = Articulating
| |
− | |number_of_holes = 4
| |
− | |no_burn_wand = Yes
| |
− |
| |
− | |water_source = yes
| |
− | |source_type = Reservoir
| |
− | |reservoir_capacity = 101 oz
| |
− | |reservoir_material = Plastic
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− | |reservoir_access = Top
| |
− | |reservoir_removable = Yes
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− |
| |
− | |controls = Yes
| |
− | |control_type = Lever
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− | |display_type = PID
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− | |power_light = Yes
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− | |temp_control = Yes
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− | |clock_timer = Timer
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− | |pre_infusion = No
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− | |low_water_warning = Yes
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− | |energy_saving = Yes
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− | |pressure_gauges = Steam
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− | |steam_control = Yes
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− | |brew_temp_display = Yes
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− |
| |
− | |cup_warmer = yes
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− | |warmer_material = Stainless Steel
| |
− | |warmer_size = 9 in. x 9.75 in.
| |
− | |warmer_type = Passive
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− |
| |
− | |portafilter = yes
| |
− | |portafilter_material = Chrome Plated Brass
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− | |portafilter_type = Commercial Style
| |
− | |quantity_included = 2
| |
− | |portafilter_diameter = 58 mm.
| |
− | |commercial_baskets = Single & Double
| |
− | |bottomless_portafilter = Yes
| |
− | |tamper_size = 58 mm.
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− |
| |
− | |brew_group = yes
| |
− | |group_material = Chrome Plated Brass
| |
− | |group_type = Ring
| |
− | |preheat = Yes
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− | |solenoid = Yes
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− | |back_flushable = Yes
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− |
| |
− | |boiler_data = yes
| |
− | |num_boilers = 2
| |
− | |brew_steam_simultaneous = Yes
| |
− |
| |
− | |brew_boiler = yes
| |
− | |brew_boiler_type = Large Volume
| |
− | |brew_boiler_wattage = 800
| |
− | |brew_boiler_volume = 11 oz./0.325 Liter
| |
− | |brew_boiler_material = Stainless Steel
| |
− | |brew_boiler_orientation = Vertical
| |
− | |brew_element_location = Internal
| |
− | |brew_boiler_autofill = Yes
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− | |brew_boiler_insulated = Yes
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− |
| |
− | |steam_boiler = yes
| |
− | |steam_boiler_type = Large Volume
| |
− | |steam_boiler_wattage = 800
| |
− | |steam_boiler_volume = 25.36 oz/0.75 Liter
| |
− | |steam_boiler_material = Stainless Steel
| |
− | |steam_boiler_orientation = Vertical
| |
− | |steam_element_location = Internal
| |
− | |steam_boiler_insulated = Yes
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− |
| |
− | |pump_data = yes
| |
− | |pump_type = Vibration
| |
− | |pump_wattage = 52
| |
− | |pump_pressure = 15 Bar
| |
− | |pump_pressure_adjust = Yes
| |
− | |pump_self_prime = Yes
| |
− |
| |
− | |details = yes
| |
− | |manufacture_country = Italy
| |
− | |nsf_certified = No
| |
− | |recommended_application = Home Use
| |
− | }}
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− |
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− | <!-- Categories -->
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− | [[Category:Prosumers]]
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| [[Category:Profitec]] | | [[Category:Profitec]] |