Difference between revisions of "Profitec Pro 800"

From Whole Latte Love Support Library

(edited formatting and added line about bracing bottom nut while cleaning vacuum relief)
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|water_source      = Reservoir
 
|water_source      = Reservoir
 
|level_probe_instr = The water level probe can be cleaned by removing it from the boiler. First make sure the machine is unplugged and fully cooled off. The level probe is located on top of the boiler; it has a red wire which is attached to it.
 
|level_probe_instr = The water level probe can be cleaned by removing it from the boiler. First make sure the machine is unplugged and fully cooled off. The level probe is located on top of the boiler; it has a red wire which is attached to it.
####The probe is secured to the boiler by a two bolt assembly. Use an open ended wrench or adjustable wrench to loosen the smaller upper bolt. Once this nut is loosened the probe should be able to slide out.
+
####'''The probe is secured to the boiler by a two bolt assembly.''' Use an open ended wrench or adjustable wrench to loosen the smaller upper bolt. Once this nut is loosened the probe should be able to slide out.
####Once the probe is removed clean it off. Soak the probe in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder.
+
####'''Once the probe is removed clean it off.''' Soak the probe in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder.
####If the probe has a large amount of scale buildup on it a scrubby sponge can be used to remove the scale buildup. Do not use a metal scrubber as it can damage the probe.
+
####'''If the probe has a large amount of scale buildup on it a scrubby sponge can be used to remove the scale buildup.''' Do not use a metal scrubber as it can damage the probe.
####Also examine the wiring of the probe to make sure it is intact and is attached to the power board of the machine.
+
####'''Also examine the wiring of the probe to make sure it is intact and is attached to the power board of the machine.'''
 
}}
 
}}
 
   
 
   
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{{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-Wand-Leak
 
{{Troubleshooting-Prosumer-Wand-Leak
 
|knob_instr        = Instructions for taking apart the knob assembly can be found in the video below: {{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WdlV1pCtaA|480|center}}
 
|knob_instr        = Instructions for taking apart the knob assembly can be found in the video below: {{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WdlV1pCtaA|480|center}}
##''There is also a seal in the steam valve that may be worn or dirty and is letting water through.''' The seal may need to be replaced, or it can also be flipped over and reused. The video below explains: {{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiFw0SV24S8|480|center|||start=1012}}
+
##'''There is also a seal in the steam valve that may be worn or dirty and is letting water through.''' The seal may need to be replaced, or it can also be flipped over and reused. The video below explains: {{#ev:youtube|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiFw0SV24S8|480|center|||start=1012}}
 
|tip_instr          = <br />
 
|tip_instr          = <br />
 
##'''The steam tip o-ring is easy to access.''' Simply unscrew the steam tip and there will be a small o-ring between the tip the wand arm. Inspect this o-ring for damage and clean it.
 
##'''The steam tip o-ring is easy to access.''' Simply unscrew the steam tip and there will be a small o-ring between the tip the wand arm. Inspect this o-ring for damage and clean it.

Revision as of 14:23, 27 October 2017

The Profitec Pro 800 is a Prosumer espresso machine that features a stylish body, large 3-liter boiler, and a lever operated brew group.

Profitec Pro 800
PRO 800 Product Image.jpg
Manufacturer: Profitec
Model Name: Pro 800
Type: Prosumer
BUY ME V3.jpg


Basic Usage

Getting Started

Adjusting The PID

The PID for this machine is located behind the drip tray. Please note that this machine will only have a "t1" setting for the PID, since this is a single boiler machine. This is for steam temperature, and should be set around 250 °F.

Pre-Infusing

Pre-infusion on this style of machine is simple. Simply pull down the lever and water will seep into the grouphead pre-wetting the grounds. When you are ready to start the shot lift the lever up.

Steam Tip Compatibility

ECM and Profitec Steam Tip Compatibility

Cleaning & Maintenance

Backflushing/Descaling

Because of internal and group components in this machine it should not be descaled or backflushed. The pump does not actively come on other than to refill the boiler, and there is not a relief for backflushing pressure. To prevent cleaning agents from becoming trapped inside the machine, this machine should only be manually cleaned by a professional repair technician. As such the use of carbon and mineral filtration for the water put into the machine is highly suggested.

Grouphead Cleaning

On a daily basis the shower screen and group gasket should be wiped down and any visible grounds/dirt should be removed.

On a monthly the shower screen and gasket should be removed, and the grouphead cleaned on a monthly basis. Take extra care in cleaning the grouphead thoroughly, brush the grouphead down with a grouphead cleaning brush, and soak the shower screen in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder. Rinse off any buildup on the group gasket with plain water.

Steam Wand Cleaning

Steam wands, steam tips, and nozzle attachments should be cleaned daily after the machine is finished being used for the day. Milk residues quickly build up on steam wands and frothing nozzles, so it is important to keep these clean to prevent blockages from forming.

Replacing Group Gasket

The group gasket will typically need to be replaced about every six months to a year. It is not necessary to replace the gasket until leaking at the grouphead occurs, but it is good to have a gasket on hand since the machine cannot be used with a broken gasket. The shower screen should also be cleaned and inspected at this time. If there is considerable scale/coffee buildup or wear it should also be replaced.

Water Softener

Because this machine should only be descaled professionally we recommend a filtration system, such as a BWT Inline Filter, be installed on the unit to prevent scale buildup. The machine does have a basic debris filter, but this will not soften the water or prevent scale buildup in any way. DO NOT use distilled, reverse osmosis, or zero water in this machine. It will cause sensors in the machine to malfunction and can be potentially damaging to metal components.

Recommended Cleaning Products

The best product for cleaning grouphead components, and cleaning filter baskets is a backflushing powder like Urnex Cafiza. Again, this machine should not be backflushed, and this cleaning agent is for the purpose of cleaning removable metal components only.


Troubleshooting

No Crema or Bad Tasting Shots

Typically, issues with crema or the flavor of the shot do not indicate a malfunction of the machine. Instead, this indicates that an adjustment needs to be made in the brewing process or that different beans need to be used.

The following articles review the different variables and offer solutions:

If the behavior persists after reviewing these factors then the machine may need to be cleaned. Lack of cleaning can cause burned or bitter flavors, or create flow issues which can result in a weak shot. Navigate to the Cleaning & Maintenance icon above for more information.


Difficulty Frothing

As with brewing, technique is critical to frothing well. Frothing is very sensitive to technique, which has a steep learning curve. If the machine is producing steam then an adjustment to technique may need to be made. The video on the right shows proper frothing technique.

Wiki-YT-HowtoFrothSteamMilkLatteArtCappuccino.jpg

How to Froth and Steam Milk for Latte Art, Cappuccino and More



Many frothing mistakes are common missteps that result in poor or no froth. The video on the right identifies these mistakes and shows how to correct them.

Wiki-YT-6CommonMilkFrothingMistakes.jpg

6 Common Milk Frothing Mistakes



It is also important not to overheat your milk. The milk will have the sweetest and most velvety texture between 140-150 F°. As you froth past this point the milk will lose its sweetness, the froth will take on a gummier texture, and eventually the milk will scald and begin to taste burnt. The video on the right explains how to use a frothing thermometer so that the milk is kept within the ideal range.

Wiki-YT-HowToUseAThermometer.jpg

How To Use a Thermometer to Froth Milk



Flow Issues

The first place to start with any flow issue is cleaning the machine. Before going through these steps please make sure the machine is cleaned according to the Cleaning & Maintenance section of this article.


No Steam From Wand / No Hot Water From Tap

  1. Check the brew function on the machine and see if water is able to flow through the machine for this function.
    1. If the brew water is not flowing either refer to the No Flow At All section of this article
    2. If the brew water flows but is not hot refer to the On But Not Heating section of this article.
  2. Check the hot water function of the machine. If you are able to draw hot water then the steam boiler must be pressurizing and heating, because hot water is expelled from the machine by steam pressure.
    1. Remove the tip from the steam wand and test the flow. If flow is restored then the tip needs to be cleaned and reattached.
    2. If the flow is still blocked then there may be a blockage in the steam wand itself. Clean the wand by using a pipe brush that has synthetic or plastic bristles; metal bristles can damage the wand. Then soak the wand in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder for ten minutes. Test flow again.
    3. If there still isn't flow then there may be a blockage farther back in the steam circuit. The machine may need to be professionally cleaned to remove the blockage.
  3. If the machine is spewing a lot of steam from the top as it is heating up then the vacuum relief valve may be stuck open. This valve is supposed to close once the machine produces enough steam pressure.
    1. Unplug the machine and make sure it is cooled down. Remove the cover of the machine.
    2. Once the cover is removed the top of the vacuum relief valve will need to be removed. The vacuum relief valve is on top of the boiler.
      The vacuum relief is circled in red.
      Because the vacuum relief valve is thread bonded into the boiler it will be easier to just remove the top of the valve, like shown in the photo below. This can be done with a socket wrench, or an open ended wrench. The relief valve will have two nuts, a thicker nut on top and a thinner nut on the bottom. Unscrew the thicker top nut.
      Relief valve with top removed.
    3. You will be able to access the internal valve components now. The separate valve components will look like this:
      Vacuum Relief Parts
      The video below discusses what these valve components do and how to clean them.
  4. The high limit switch may be tripped. The high limit switch is an internal killswitch which prevents damage to the machine caused by power surges or the machine overheating.
    1. Unplug the machine and make sure it is cooled down. Remove the cover of the machine.
    2. Once the cover is removed look at the left hand side of the machine and you will find the electrical connections for the boiler. The high limit switches are the two white cylinders with the black push button in the center.
      The high-limit resets are circled in red.
    3. Reset the switches by pressing on the button on each switch several times. The switch will not click or signal it has been reset, but the act of pressing it several times will reset it.

Poor Or No Flow From Grouphead

If there is little to no flow from the grouphead then it will need to be taken apart for cleaning.

  1. Use a flathead screwdriver to pull the shower screen down and off the machine. Looking at the grouphead from below there will be a lip on the shower screen. Gently pry on this lip with the screwdriver from different angles until the shower screen comes off. The group gasket may come off with the screen.
  2. Use a grouphead brush or an old tooth brush to clean brush down any dirt or coffee residues from the grouphead. Dipping the brush in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder will assist in removing residues.
  3. Soak the shower screen and filter baskets in a solution of hot water and cafiza. Rinse of the gasket with plain water to remove and grinds or coffee buildup.
  4. If this does not solve the flow issue then the machine will require professional service.


No Flow At All

If the machine is set to the plumbed mode:

  1. First try switching to reservoir mode temporarily and see if this resolves the issue. If it does, then the issue is limited to the plumb line and you should go to the next step. Otherwise keep the machine in reservoir mode and skip down to the next section which deals with testing no flow in reservoir mode.
  2. Return the machine to plumb mode. The next thing to check is to see if we can isolate where the flow issue is occurring for the plumb line. Try putting the plumb line hosing into an external bucket or container filled with water and see if the machine will draw water from this source. If it can't then there may bea blockage somewhere in the plumb line itself.
  3. If you are able to draw water from the plumb line, then there may be an issue with the plumbing supplying this line.

If the machine is set to use the reservoir:

  1. If the pump does not sound like it is activating:
    1. Check to make sure the water tank is filled and the machine isn't indicating that the water tank is empty.
      1. If the tank is empty refill it.
      2. If the tank is full, but the machine thinks the water tank is empty then the tank may not be seated correctly. Make sure there isn't anything blocked the tank from sitting flush inside the machine. Use of R/O, distilled, and zero waters will cause this sensor to malfunction, resulting in the machine thinking there is no water causing the pump not to activate.
    2. Remove the cover of the machine and check for any loose or disconnected wires.
    3. There may be an issue with the water tank sensor.
      1. Remove the drip tray from the front and make sure the plumb switch is turned off.
      2. Remove the reservoir and make sure the float magnet is facing the sensor. Magnet on the float should be facing the back left corner of the tank.
      3. Check to make srue the wire for the water level sensor isn't loose/disconnected.
    4. There may be an issue with the pump powering on. Check to make sure the pump doesn't have any loose/disconnected wires.
  2. If the pump does sound like it is activating make sure the plumb valve and the plumb switch are both set in the correct position. If they are set in opposite positions then the pump will activate, but water won't be able to come through the machine.


Machine Is Leaking

Between Portafilter & Grouphead

If the grouphead leaks from the space in between the portafilter and the grouphead during brewing then the group gasket is either worn out or out of place. This gasket needs to be replaced typically every six months to a year.

  1. Use a flathead screwdriver to pull the shower screen down and off the machine. Looking at the grouphead from below there will be a lip on the shower screen. Gently pry on this lip with the screwdriver from different angles until the shower screen comes off. The group gasket may come off with the screen.
  2. Use a grouphead brush or an old tooth brush to clean brush down any dirt or coffee residues from the grouphead. Dipping the brush in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder will assist in removing residues.
  3. Soak the shower screen and filter baskets in a solution of hot water and cafiza.
  4. Once everything is clean insert the shower screen into the group gasket securely.
  5. Press both the shower screen and gasket into the grouphead together. Then attach the portafilter firmly to secure these components into place.


From Bottom Of Machine

  1. Check the water tank and drip tray to make sure there are no cracks or breaks where water can escape. Make sure they are properly positioned on the machine.
  2. Open the machine and check all of the connections to make sure they are securely attached.
    • Examine the pump and boiler assemblies to see if there are any cracks in them. If the machine was exposed to subfreezing conditions without being properly drained it can cause these components to crack. These parts will need to be replaced if they are cracked.
    • Make sure both the inlet line and the outlet line on the pump are securely connected.
    • Check the various valves located on top of the boiler assembly.
    1. If water is leaking from the relief valves, then the boiler may be overfilling. Distilled, reverse osmosis, and zero water are not compatible with this style of machine as the water level probe depends on minerals in the water to detect its presence. These water types do not contain minerals, and so the machine will continuously fill until it overflows, usually resulting in water leaking from the relief valves.
    2. If water is leaking from the relief valves even though you are using a water that contains minerals, then you may need to clean the water level probe.
  1. If the machine is plumbed, then there may be too much pressure at the inlet line. The pressure restrictor may need to be adjusted, or if you do not have a pressure restrictor installed you may need to install one.
  2. If the valves are leaking directly from where they screw into the boiler, then they may have a broken seal. Try resealing the valves by using white teflon plumbers tape or food safe permabond and screwing them back into the boiler.
  3. If there are any broken or cracked hoses, or hoses with pinhole leaks, they will need to be replaced.
  1. If you cannot find the source of the leak, it's possible the water you are seeing is from water spilled when refilling the machine, or from the drip tray being out of position. It is also possible to run the unit with the casing off to help identify the source of the leak; precautions should be taken to protect yourself from any exposed wiring or hot water or steam that comes from the machine if you attempt this.



Steam From Top Of Machine

If there is steam coming from the top of the machine then one of the relief valves is venting steam.

  1. If the steam is leaking from the machine while it is heating up, with more and more steam coming from the top as the machine heats more, then the steam is coming from the vacuum relief valve.
    • The vacuum relief valve is meant to vent steam until a certain amount of pressure has built up in the boiler. It is normal for this valve to vent steam as the machine is heating. Once enough steam pressure is built up in the boiler the valve will pop closed.
    • If the machine is fully heated and the vacuum relief valve is still not closing then it may need to be cleaned. Unplug the machine and make sure it is cooled down. Remove the cover of the machine.
    1. Once the cover is removed the top of the vacuum relief valve will need to be removed. The vacuum relief valve is on top of the boiler.
      The vacuum relief is circled in red.
      • Because the vacuum relief valve is thread bonded into the boiler, it will be easier to remove only the top nut of the valve, like shown in the photo below. This can be done with a socket wrench, or an open ended wrench. The relief valve will have two nuts, a thicker nut on top and a thinner nut on the bottom. While the bottom nut is thread bonded into the boiler, be sure to brace it with another wrench to hold it in place. Unscrew the thicker top nut.
        Relief valve with top removed.
    2. You will be able to access the internal valve components now. The separate valve components will look like this:
      Vacuum Relief Parts
    3. The video below discusses what these valve components do and how to clean them.
    • If cleaning the vacuum relief valve has not resolved the issue, then the vacuum relief valve may be broken and will need to be replaced.
  2. If the steam is leaking from the machine after it is fully heated, then the pressure relief valve may be relieving excess steam pressure.
    • The steam boiler temperature may need to be lowered. If your machine features a pressure gauge it should not read any higher than 1.2 bar. Program the steam boiler temperature lower and lower until the relief valve stops opening and the pressure gauge reads 1.2 bar or lower.
    • If lowering the temperature is not helping, then the pressure relief valve may be stuck open.



From Steam Wand Or Hot Water Tap

  1. If either wand is leaking from the end of the wand, it means the steam/hot water valve is not fully closed.
    • Make sure the knob is securely in the closed position.
    • If the knob feels loose, or doesn't appear to be properly engaging, then there may be a loose or broken part in the knob assembly. Instructions for taking apart the knob assembly can be found in the video below:
    1. There is also a seal in the steam valve that may be worn or dirty and is letting water through. The seal may need to be replaced, or it can also be flipped over and reused. The video below explains:
    • If the leaking persists, then the corresponding valve may need to be replaced.
  2. If the wand is leaking between the tip and the arm of the wand during use, there is an o-ring that is broken, missing, or out of position.
    1. The steam tip o-ring is easy to access. Simply unscrew the steam tip and there will be a small o-ring between the tip the wand arm. Inspect this o-ring for damage and clean it.
    2. The hot water tip is a little more complicated, but still easily accessed and cleaned.
      1. First unscrew the tip assembly from the wand arm.
      2. There will be an o-ring between the tip assembly and the wand arm. If the leaking was coming from here, then this o-ring needs to be cleaned and repositioned, or if it is damaged it will need to be replaced.
        The red arrow points to the o-ring for the hot water tip.
      3. If the leaking was coming from farther down on the tip, then the tip will need to be disassembled further to troubleshoot. To disassemble the tip further simply twist the two halves of the tip assembly in opposite directions. Alternatively you can screw the tip back onto the machine and then just unscrew the bottom half of the tip; this will give you a better grip on the tip to unscrew the two halves.
        PRO 700 Hot Water Tip End Removed.jpg
      4. Once the tip is apart, it will separate into three separate pieces. There will be three metal pieces and another o-ring. Inspect the o-ring for cleanliness and damage. The metal pieces can be soaked in a solution of hot water and backflushing powder to remove any scale buildup on them.
        The disassembled hot water tip.
  3. If the wand is leaking from the ball joint, then there may an o-ring that is worn out or out of position.
    1. These instructions apply to both the steam and hot water wands. First remove the wand arm. This can be done by unscrewing the hex shaped nut at the top of the arm. Please note that this assembly is reverse threaded, so you will need to turn the nut clockwise to loosen it.
      Ball Joint Securing Nut
    2. Once the wand is removed you may have parts stick to the valve assembly. Do not lose these parts.
      The tension spring may be stuck in the steam valve like the picture shows.
    3. If the leaking was coming from the top of the securing nut, check the white teflon o-ring to make sure it is in clean and in good condition.
      The red arrow points to the teflon o-ring.
    4. Inspect the tension spring to make sure it is in good condition. The spring should be really firm. If it is easily compressed then it may need to be replaced. The bottom of the spring will have a metal gasket, which helps the wand pivot on the spring Make sure these parts are clean and reinstall them.
      Parts of the wand ball joint. The metal gasket is pictured in the center, and inserts into the bottom of the spring.



Machine Not Heating Or Powering On

No Power

  1. Make sure the machine is plugged into an appropriate power source.
    • Do not use the machine on a surge protector. This machine has a high power draw, more than a typical kitchen appliance such as a refrigerator or a microwave. Surge protectors are typically not rated to handle the amperage this machine requires.
    • Try using the machine on a different outlet, and make sure the machine is the only appliance plugged into that outlet.
  2. Make sure the power switches are functioning properly and not broken. If the machine isn't powering on try pressing and holding the power button in the on position to see if the machine turns on. If you are able to power the machine on this way then the power switch needs to be replaced.
  3. If the machine recently had a leak, had water spilled on it, or any other exposure to moisture then the machine may be shorting out. Try letting the machine sit unplugged for 48 hours to make sure there isn't a short caused by moisture.

Brew Or Steam Not Hot Enough

You can use the instructions in the section of this article that describes how adjust the PID to raise the set temperature of the boiler. Raising the temperature too far puts the boiler at risk of over-pressurizing, which will cause the relief valve to open and vent steam from the top of the machine. If the steam pressure gauge moves past 1.2 bar then the temperature will need to be lowered. Since this is a single boiler machine steam and brew temperatures are interrelated, raising one raises the other.


On But Not Heating


    1. If the tank is empty refill it.
    2. If the tank is full, but the machine thinks the water tank is empty then the tank may not be seated correctly. Make sure there isn't anything blocked the tank from sitting flush inside the machine. Use of R/O, distilled, and zero waters will cause this sensor to malfunction, resulting in the machine thinking there is no water causing the pump not to activate.
  1. There is a loose, disconnected, or broken wire inside the machine. Remove the top of the machine and inspect the wiring.
  2. The high limit switch of the machine may have tripped.
    1. Unplug the machine and make sure it is cooled down. Remove the cover of the machine.
    2. Once the cover is removed look at the left hand side of the machine and you will find the electrical connections for the boiler. The high limit switches are the two white cylinders with the black push button in the center.
      The high-limit resets are circled in red.
    3. Reset the switches by pressing on the button on each switch several times. The switch will not click or signal it has been reset, but the act of pressing it several times will reset it.
  3. The outlet the machine is plugged into is not rated to handle the power draw of the machine.



Portafilter Handle Not Fitting On Machine

  1. On all new machines, the portafilter may or may not fit perpendicular to the machine. This is perfectly normal. This is because the grouphead gasket requires time to wear in before this can happen. As long as you can get the portafilter hand tight onto the machine and brew without leaking, then the machine is operating properly.
  2. Too much coffee may be dosed into the portafilter. If there is too much coffee in the portafilter, it can press into the shower screen and prevent the portafilter tightening all the way. Reduce the amount of coffee in the portafilter and try again. If you see an indentation from the shower screen in the grounds, then you’ve added too much.
  3. Check the filter baskets for dings, dents, or any sort of warping. A filter basket that is malformed can prevent the filter basket from sealing up against the group gasket.
  4. The group gasket has slipped out of place or needs replacing. Please refer to the section of this article which discusses gasket issues for instructions on how to test the gasket or replace it.

Diagrams & Manuals

Profitec Pro 800
Electrical Diagram: Not Available
Hydraulic Diagram: Not Available
Machine Manual:
PROFITEC PRO 800 Machine Manual.pdf
Parts Diagram: Not Available
Service Manual Not Available
Startup Guide: Not Available

Specifications

Basic Specs
Width: 16.53 in.
Height: 28.74 in.
Depth: 22.83 in.
Weight: 78.26 lbs
Wattage: 1500
Voltage: 115
Housing
Housing Materials: Stainless Steel
Drip Tray Material: Stainless Steel
Drip Tray Cover Material: Stainless Steel
Drip Tray Capacity: 1 L.
Drain Line Adaptable: Yes
Frothing
Material: Stainless Steel
Steam Wand Style: Commercial
Wand Movement: Articulating
Number Of Holes: 4
No Burn Wand: Yes
Water Source
Reservoir Or Plumbed: Both
Reservoir Capacity: 101 oz. / 3 L.
Reservoir Material: Plastic
Reservoir Removable: Yes
Controls
Type Of Controls: PID
Display Type: Gicar LED
Temperature Control: Yes
Pre-infusion: Yes
Pressure Gauges: Steam
Brew Temperature Display: No
Cup Warmer
Material: Stainless Steel
Passive / Active: Passive
Portafilter Data
Material: Chrome Plated Brass
Type: Commercial Style
Quantity Included: 3
Diameter: 58 mm.
Commercial Filter Baskets Included: Single, Double, Triple
Bottomless Portafilter Available: Included
Tamper Size: 58 mm.
Brew Group
Type: Lever Operated
Preheat: Yes
Three-Way Valve: No
Back Flush Capable: No
Boiler Data
Number Of Boilers: 1
Brew & Steam Simultaneously: Yes
Brew Boiler Data
Boiler Wattage: 1500
Boiler Voulme: 118 oz. / 3.5 L.
Boiler Material: Copper
Boiler Orientation: Horizontal
Element Location: Side
Brew Boiler Auto Fill: Yes
Insulated: Yes
Pump Data
Pump Type: Ulka Vibration Pump
Max Pressure: 15
Brew Pressure Adjustability: N/A
Details
Country Of Manufacture: Germany
Recommended Application: Home Use